Turquoise Bays and Majestic Rays

Beaches that Blow your Mind

The beaches we've encountered on our journey have been incredible, but the ones from the past two weeks are the real winners. Stretching miles of pristine white sand, crystal-clear turquoise waters, and the bliss of seclusion, it's no wonder they're often featured in the world's best beaches list year after year.

Beautiful Bremer Bay

Bremer Bay is a sleepy coastal hamlet nestled between Albany and Esperance.  

It is one of the few places in the world where you can see Orcas (Killer Whales) in their natural habitat.  Unfortunately, you need to be here between January and April to catch their performance.  Instead, we enjoyed a lively show by the Salty Sea Dogs at the Bremer Bay Brewery.  It was really fun to watch them bang out sea shanties with gusto.  We couldn’t help but sing along to the Drunken Sailor.

Word of the Week - "Shoofly"

As we’ve travelled along the south coast of WA, we’ve noticed that the flies are even friendlier than the good folk who live here.  Wearing our fly nets to avoid unintentionally inhaling these pesky little creatures has been essential.

No flies on us

While flapping away the flies, it's vital to stay focused on the path. Here are some reptiles that stopped us in our tracks.

Tiger Snake - Big Danger Noodle

King Skink

Accidental Starvation

Amidst my excitement of exploring this beautiful coastline, it dawned on my halfway to Esperance that we were set to arrive three days ahead of our booking.  This boo boo meant we needed to find an impromptu place to stay, and pronto.  Consulting our bible (aka WikiCamps) we found we were close to a place called Starvation Bay.  What a genius cock up!  It turned out to be a sensational little cove, named after French explorers who were marooned there in the 18 century and sadly succumbed to starvation.

Stunning Starvation Bay

Big Things – Big Fence

Another intriguing discovery is that if you stroll far enough along the beach at Starvation Bay, you'll come across the beginning of the Rabbit Proof Fence, constructed in the early 1900s. Spanning 1,200 kilometers, it was once the world's longest fence, extending from this point to Cape Keraudren in Northwest WA. However, the project turned out to be an epic failure.  It was doomed before it was even finished.  Little Thumpers found a way and were munching their way through their forbidden territory before you could say “What’s up Doc?”.

The remains of the wall that marks the start of the Rabbit Proof Fence

Esperance – Every Cloud Has a Silver Lining

Esperance - surely the jewel in the crown of WA.  Whilst we had some sunny days to chill out on Esperance's many beaches, we also had some overcast days too which were perfect for hitting the walking trails.

My two favourite Esperence Beaches.  Above:  Twilight Cove, home of Esperance Surf Life Saving Club.  Below, Blue Haven Beach

Below:  We left our clothes on at Free Beach - didn't want to scare those snakes and sharks 

Whilst Esperance is a bustling port for exporting iron ore, nickel and grain, it also boasts a charming esplanade and fantastic street art sponsored by local businesses, showcasing the town’s history and culture. On our travels I’ve noticed that street art seems to deter graffiti.  I don't know if the art instills community pride, or simply makes it harder to deface, but either way, I'm keen to see this idea spread to parts of Sydney's Northern Beaches.

Awesome Esperance Street Art

Lest We Forget

Being in Esperance for Remembrance Day and participating in the town's service was a privilege. It was heartbreaking to discover that during World War II, Esperance, with a population of only 300, sent 70 men to war, and tragically, 20 of them never returned.

Lucked Out – Another Brewery

Whilst the turquoise lagoons and pristine sands were a big pull to this area, Esperance’s Brewery, Lucky Bay Brewery, was a huge draw card for Steve.  It has been recommended to him so many times on this trip.   Our visit was made all the better, by catching up with some delightful travel buddies, Emma and Damian, who we first met when we camped at the Chocolate Shop in Pemberton and then again in Bremer Bay.  Live music, yummy wood-fired pizza, great companions and a huge selection of craft beer – all the ingredients for a fab night out.

Trading travel tales with Emma and Damian at Lucky Bay Brewery

It is said that beer is only rented for a few hours.  Well, it looks like this is a strongly held belief judging by the urinals at Lucky Bay Brewery!

From bladder to barrel in a flash

Stone the Crow!

Following our visit to Esperance, we explored the stunning Cape Le Grand National Park and surrounds, arriving at the picturesque Wharton Beach. Once again, the striking contrast of white sands and turquoise waters was breathtaking. It was there we encountered Donna from Brisbane and her goofy Labradoodle-Groodle cross, Ollie. Donna, who has been traveling solo - Ollie aside - inspired us with her journey of life and her lap of Oz.  Unfortunately, Donna dropped her car and caravan keys on the sand whilst walking and they were picked up by an opportunistic crow.  Fortunately, Steve managed to help her "access" her spare keys from her caravan, else she would have been stranded in paradise forever.

A walk and then a cuppa on the beach

Critter of the Week – Stingray

At Wharton Beach, a magnificent large stingray glided through the crystal-clear shallows, following us for about 200 meters.

Lucky Us at Lucky Bay

Lucky Bay, crowned the World's Best Beach in 2023, is so popular that securing a camping spot in the National Park is quite a challenge. Fortunately, we managed to book early and snagged a stay for a few nights. The bay was named by Matthew Flinders during his historic circumnavigation of Australia in 1802, where he used it as a safe anchorage.

We walked the length of the Bay to Rossiter Bay and around to Thistle Cove in the other direction.  While we didn’t see the kangaroos that famously lounge about on the pristine white sand, but did spot them tucking into some Pringles left carelessly outside a camper's tent.

Above:  Lucky Bay from the camp side end

Below:  Looking back on Lucky Bay from Rossiter Bay

Tessel Banksia – Relatable Flora

On our treks through this stunning region, we’ve come across the Tessel Banksia plant many times, sparking some philosophical thoughts.   At this time of year, some of its blossoms are vibrant, full of color and vitality, while others are, well, a little bit crusty around the edges.   Yet in its entirety, the whole plant is a metaphor for where I am in my life right now.  Sure, there are a few signs of aging from the many seasons I've been fortunate to enjoy, but I'm still charged with energy for adventures and experiences yet to come.  Wrap it all up in a plant like the Tessel Banksia, and it looks pretty damn beautiful.  

Camp Life

When the sun goes down (as it does very early in WA), we retreat to our cozy 1.5 square metre living/kitchen area, where entertainment becomes a challenge of its own. Over the last 9 months we have binge watched Gavin and Stacey (very late to that game), Yellowstone, and every British TV crime drama you can think of, on a very tiny Ipad (solar panels permitting).  Lately, we've taken up charades for fun. Can you figure out Steve’s movie!

Walking Amongst Giants

Chocolate Box Camping

In our quest for unique camping spots, we stumbled upon the Southern Forests Chocolate Company near Pemberton.  At $15 a night fee it was a sweet deal which meant we had extra pennies to sample the artisan chocolate and indulge in the most amazing hot chocolate that we’ve ever tasted. 

Big Things – Big Trees

To burn off the calories we punished ourselves with a grueling hike through Gloucester National Park, surrounded by the terrifyingly tall Karri Trees.

In this region, you can ascend three fire lookout trees, the tallest being the Dave Evans Bicentennial Tree which was pegged in 1988 as part of Australia’s bicentennial celebrations.  

At 68 metres above the forest floor, it is the world's highest treetop lookout in the world.  Although climbing to the very top was prohibited last year due to it being deemed too perilous even for Aussie standards, but you can scramble up a lofty 20 metres if you can stomach it.  Well, let me tell you, Steve scaled it as fast as a rat up a drainpipe on a sugar rush (must have been all that chocolate he ate).  He likened it to climbing the mast on Quantock, always eager to satisfy his sailing passion even in the absence of a yacht.  

Above:  Steve on his Hari-Kari mission up the Karri Tree

Below:  Steve at the highest point that you are allowed to climb (only halfway!)

Loved to Death

In addition to the towering Karri Trees, the Tingle Trees stand impressively large. We visited a Giant Tingle Tree with a 24-metre girth, aged over 400 years.

Steve in the Giant Tingle Tree, Walpole

Previously, another enormous Tingle Tree in the area was a popular attraction, where visitors would drive into its hollow trunk for a unique photo opportunity. However, despite their impressive height, Tingle Trees have quite shallow root systems. Sadly, this tree fell in 1990 due to soil compaction around its roots due to people using it as a drive thru'. The silver lining was that this tree's fall led to the creation of the Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk, allowing visitors to wander through the ancient tingle forest with little to no impact on the environment. Suspended 40 metres high, the skywalk provides a rare chance to walk among the treetops of the towering Tingle Trees. 

Above: Mhairi holding on to the railing very tightly on the wobbly walkway 

Below: The last car to drive through the ill-fated Tingle Tree was a Holden

Word of the Week - WOW!!!

In awe of the giant trees in this region, we used this word a lot.  And we were particularly "wowed by Walpole".

You could easily blink and miss this tiny town, but we were really glad to stay here for 3 days, camping on a gorgeous site by the beach.  

WOW is also the name of a fabulous cruise we went on - The WOW Wilderness Eco Cruise.  It was a standout experience all thanks to Gary "Gazza" Muir, the tour guide and boat owner. His knowledge of Walpole, the universe and everything is incredible.  Such an engaging, funny man.

Above:  Gazza teaching us about science, history, and everything Walpole

Below:  Wading through a snake infested swamp to reach a magnificent Melaleuca Tree (aka the Paperbark Tree)

Apparently, the town of Walpole is "chocka blocka full of Quokka", to quote Gazza.  Unlike Rottnest Island, the ones in Walpole are nocturnal, which meant no Quokka selfies for us, unfortunately.  However, there were lots of other wildlife to get excited about.

Critter of the Week – Australian Ringneck Parrot

Also known as the Twenty-Eight Parrot because the botanist who discovered it thought its squawk sounded like the French word for 28 (vingt-huit) – “van tweet”. Another theory is that it takes 28 parrots to make a pie.  Steve was ready to make a pie when this pretty polly stole his glasses.  

Above:  Steve getting his pirate on with the 28

Below:  Footage of the pesky pilfering parrot stealing Steve's specs

Camp Life

Taking advantage of a powered site, it's the perfect opportunity to fill the freezer with healthy meals.  Roo Rogan Josh, anyone? 😋

What’s that Skippy? Mhairi’s whipping up another batch of Butter Chicken in the Thermie?

Delicious Denmark

Heading east along the coast, we reached the charming little town of Denmark boasting breathtaking landscapes, crystal-clear waters, and a vibrant food and wine scene.  It’s pretty easy to fall in love with this place.

We stayed in a quaint little caravan park on a river bend, a perfect spot to explore the area.  We visited the renowned Elephant Rocks and Green Pool.  It was a bit chilly for a dip, so we hit Boston Brewery, Bartholomew's Meadery, Ducket’s Mill for some cheese and Singlefile Winery.

Above: Elephant Rocks just outside of Denmark

Below: Trying to find the Queen of the hive whilst tucking into Salted Honey Ice-cream at Bartholomew's Meadery

Above:  So much yummy food at Ducketts Mill, we had to take a doggy bag

Below:  Single File Winery - dangerously close to our camp

On a cool day, we took a hike through Porongurup National Park to tackle the lung-busting Castle Rock Trail, leading to the massive granite dome that is Castle Rock.  The ascent's climax involved scaling a 7-meter ladder to reach the Granite Skywalk – that was the heart-pumping part!  Nerves conquered; the view was spectacular, with vistas stretching to Albany.  

Above: Balancing Rock on the hike to Castle Rock

Below:  View of Castle Rock and the Granite Sky Walk (not my photo!).  If I'd seen this photo beforehand, I wouldn't have done it 😅

Following a less daunting descent, we drove to historic Albany to visit the Brig Amity replica and the old Whaling Station.

Above:  Steve at the helm of the Brig Amity

Below:  Original Whaling Boat at Albany

Mop Chop Discrimination

Not to be outdone by Steve looking schmick with another one of his DIY haircuts at camp, I decided to get a trim while in Albany.  But after three hairdressers gave me the 'see you in three weeks' line (and I was only in town for the arvo), I resorted to the dodgy barber’s shop against my better judgement.

Red Flag 1:  It had the classy name of 'Scissorhands'.

Red Flag 2:  The hairdresser (loose term) looked like Kath (from Kath n Kim) who had been dragged through a fuzz bush backwards.

Red Flag 3:  Scribbled note on the mirror “If I find eggs or nits in your hair, I will abandon your cut immediately”.

There was also a big sign declaring “cash only”.  To make sure I had enough coinage for "Kath", I asked the price for a trim.  "it's $25 for guys, $50 for girls"!

Despite all the warning signs, with such an apparent skills shortage of hairdressers in this part of the world, I was desperate, so forked over the cash for a 10-minute chop.   Lucky, I have lots of hats on this trip!

And Finally ...

No standout lavatory signage spotted this week, but this personalised rego plate did make us chuckle.  Prado drivers clearly love their food!

Friends, Felons and Fermentations

Fun Times in Freo

After a month-long break to care for our pup while the kids enjoyed their own holiday in Europe (how dare they!), we returned to Perth to resume our anticlockwise lap of the Holway ‘Round.  

Choosing to stay in Fremantle over Perth was a great decision.  Freo really packs a punch with its rich history, vibrant arts and culture scene, and fantastic breweries.  It definitely makes it into our top five places to live in Australia, and that's saying something!  

Amazing street art on the side of East West furniture store

Steve next to one of his hero's, Bon Scott (ACDC), who spent his childhood in Freo

A real highlight was catching with my friends Wendy and Meena and their husbands Paul and Martin. We're so grateful to Wendy and Paul for allowing us to park our car and van at their farm during our Sydney séjour.

A great night at Gage Roads Brewery

The Felons of Fremantle

Fremantle Prison stands as the largest convict-built structure in Western Australia and the most preserved convict site in the whole of Australia. It's notorious for its harsh conditions; the cells were cramped, and the living standards were dreadful. Although deemed unfit for occupancy in 1983, it continued to function until 1991. 

Our tour guide, a former prison officer, had served 35 years before retiring last year. Yet, she returned, drawn back to what locals fondly call "the Establishment." She shared tales of crafty escapes and notorious inmates, noting that the women were particularly evil. 

The prison has certainly retained an energy. Interestingly, the women's wing now serves as a YHA hostel, offering cheap tourist accommodation for travellers. No thank you, we'll stick to our farm stays!

The net in the photo below served two purposes.   1 - a suicide net.  2 - to catch the toilet buckets that inmates would regularly throw down.  Whilst it didn't stop the guards receiving a gross shower, at least they didn't get knocked out.

Perth the Pleasure Dome

While we didn’t stay in Perth, we popped into the city for the Defender's first service.  After putting it through its paces on the Holway ‘Round, the girl really a ‘spa day’.  In the meantime, we took the opportunity to explore Perth's suburbs with the courtesy Range Rover. It was quite amusing to see that every suburb seems to have its own sex shop nestled among the local bakeries and cafes. We even spotted an "Adult Mega Store" right beside a prominent law firm.  We didn't venture in; we opted to get our kicks from putting on our kicks to hoof around Kings Park.  At nearly 1,000 acres, it is one of the world’s largest inner-city parks, even bigger than Central Park in NY. 

Queen Victoria in Kings Park - clearly not amused by Perth's sex shop boom 😏

Lucky for us, the wildflower season is still blooming lovely in Kings Park

We visited Kings Park on the 22nd anniversary of the Bali Bombing.  Coincidentally, we've been watching Bali 2002 on Stan, so the names on the memorial were very familiar to us.

Big Things – Big Jetty

Our next stop on our way South was Busselton, home of the longest timber-piled jetty in the Southern Hemisphere, extending nearly 2km out into Geographe Bay.  

End of the jetty, and a long way from home!

At the end of the jetty there is an underwater observatory providing a unique opportunity to see a variety of marine life, including fish, sea anemones, and coral.

Poor Little Timothee Vasse

Just outside Busselton, we found ourselves at Wayne and Wendy's Lawn Farm in Vasse. If I ever chose farming, I reckon lawn farming would be the way to go – seems like a pretty cruisy gig!

Camping on the lawn farm in Vasse

Vasse got its name from a young sailor, Timothee Vasse. He was the helmsman aboard the French vessel, Le Geographe, back in 1801. Caught in a fierce storm, he was swept overboard and vanished. The captain circled back to search for him but eventually had to accept that Timothee was lost at sea. Decades later, local Indigenous people led British settlers to a grave – that of a young white fella who'd spend his days gazing out to sea, waiting for his ship to return for him.  

Me and Timothee Vasse

Margaret River Delights

Margaret River, with its abundance of over 90 wineries and numerous breweries, is a delightfully perilous place to linger! In the spirit of marital equality, Steve played chauffeur for a day of winery tours, and I returned the favour the next day with a brewery expedition. Red Gate Winery stood out as my top pick, offering free tastings of 17 different wines (would have been rude not to try them all). It's no surprise that our portable wine collection has expanded significantly. As for Steve, he was particularly fond of the Margaret River Brewing Company, which not only crafts excellent beer but also serves a superb Sunday Roast complete with Yorkshire Puddings (not quite as good as mine, but not bad).

Critter of the Week – Margaret River Lamb

We love a good farm stay, so we chose to stay at a sheep farm whilst in Margaret River.  The lambs frolicking in the fields were adorable, but the lamb chops in the farm shop looked too tasty for sentimentality to kick in.  It truly was an authentic paddock-to-plate experience.

Margaret, from Big Valley Sheep Farm, Margaret River

Walkers Wonderland

To offset the naughty beverages consumed during our stay in the Margaret River region, we took full advantage of the stunning hikes available. We tackled parts of the renowned Cape to Cape walk. 

Walking through the Pink Petticoats to get to Quinninup Falls 

Surfer's Point, where the Margaret River Pro takes place

We also did a long walk around town, which has changed a lot in the 13 years since our last visit.

My ongoing amusement with bathroom signage was sparked again by a curious sign in town. Who on Earth could bathe in such a tiny sink? 😄