Oresome, Awesome Pilbara

The Pilbara – Rich in More Ways than One

Following a refreshing coastal interlude, we delved once again into the red expanse of the outback to experience the unique beauty of the Pilbara region. The Pilbara is globally renowned for its breathtaking landscapes, vast iron ore deposits, and geological significance, as it houses some of our planet's oldest rocks and geological formations.  For perspective, the Pilbara is double the size of the UK and stretches back 3.5-4.3 billion years.

Marble Bar – A Warm Welcome from Australia’s Hottest Town

Our first stop in the Pilbara was a free camp at Doolena Gorge, located just north of Marble Bar.  Interestingly, Marble Bar gets its name after a supposed colourful marble bar that crosses the Coongan River. Turns out the rock is in fact jasper, but the name stuck.

Despite being in the depths of darkest winter, it was 32 degrees on the day we visited, so we were looking forward to sinking a cold one in the famous Ironclad Hotel (so called for its thick stone walls that repel the heat).  Unlucky for us, the pub is closed on Mondays, so we had a laugh about being in Marble Bar that has no marble and no bar 😆.  Instead, we explored the museum and learned that Marble Bar has proudly held the title of Australia’s hottest town for exactly 100 years.

Karijini - A Kick-Ass Kind of Place

Given that the Pilbara is such an economic powerhouse with its massive iron ore mining operation, I found it “iron-ic” that tucked away in the middle of all that is the natural wonderland of Karijini National Park.

Karijini, distinct from the stunning gorges we visited in the Kimberley, was just as captivating. During our two-day stay, we explored Dales Gorge, Fortescue Falls, Fern Pool, Kalamina Gorge, Weano Gorge, and Hamersley Gorge.

Dales Gorge above, Kalamina Gorge below

Fortescue Falls above, Hammersley Gorge below

For all its beauty, Karijini is not for the faint-hearted.  With my HR hat on, I couldn't help myself risk-assess the place for OHS hazards:

• Some of the gorges are pretty hard core.  Despite the signs encouraging you to be careful (and specifically advising you not to attempt them pissed 😵), I was surprised by how easily you could fall to your death whilst transcending the steep, slippery rock faces (and many people have).  

• The park is home to a host of venomous snakes that will take you out given half a chance.  Death Adders and King Browns have got their fangs into a few hikers in recent times.  I almost stood on a snake myself, but didn’t hang around to take his mug shot.

• As you wander, you will pass remnants of deadly blue asbestos, a grim reminder of the nearby ghost town of Wittenoom, notorious for its asbestos-related fatalities that inspired Midnight Oil’s hit song "Blue Sky Mine".  Reflecting on the lyrics, it's poignant to consider the thousands who have perished and continue to suffer due to exposure. 

Critter of the Week – Millipedes

And yet, amidst all these lethal hazards, we were gob smacked to be stopped in our tracks by Millipedes of all things!

Word of the Week – Ouch!!

The Pilbara is home to a myriad of plant species that have uniquely adapted to thrive in its challenging climate conditions, characterised by low rainfall levels.  The plant you can’t miss is the Spinifex grass is a resilient plant species known for its ability to grow in infertile soils while conserving water.  I re-named it the Haggis Plant because it reminds me of the Haggis creatures that roam the Highlands of Scotland (in my imagination).  Whilst they look like innocent golden pom poms, when you are on hike, it is wise not to grab them to steady yourself, because they that hurts a lot.  Ouch!!

A much kinder, and prettier plant that we saw a lot amidst the stark desert landscape is the Sturt's Desert Pea.

Ripper Rocks

Geologists can seriously get their rocks off in Karijini.  I wish I could get my head around the science because the rocks are simply mind-blowing.  Here are a couple we came across along our hike at Dales Gorge.  

Zebra Rock above, Iron Ore below

Tom Price – A Top Town

At 747m above sea level, Tom Price stands as the highest town in Western Australia. Purpose built by the mining giant Rio Tinto, it's an affluent oasis in the middle of nowhere. After several days of bush camping, the prospect of a proper shower, fresh laundry, and a Coles supermarket visit was lush - small things we used to take for granted!

Around Tom Price, you can't help but be awed by the colossal, driverless trains hauling an impressive 28,000 tons of iron ore from the local mine to Karratha's port. Rio Tinto boasts that this automated train network is the largest robot in the world. Capturing one on video as it crossed our path, I managed to get a sense of the immense length of these iron giants. Here's the clip, sped up for effect.

Big Things - Big Trucks

We have come to love a good cattle station stay during our travels; they offer more luxury than a free camp, but without the frills of a caravan park.  At Cheela Plains, there was a humungous graveyard of former mining trucks out back.  

I couldn't resist ignoring the Do Not Enter sign just to get a snap for scale.

At Bullarra Station, the Aussie humour is in as much abundance as the cattle that roam freely around the campers.

Yes, there are trees in the "lavatrees"

Someone had a big night!