Whale Shark of a Time on the Coral Coast

Exmouth – A Town Far, Far Away

Back when we resided in the UK, the charming seaside town of Exmouth was just a stone's throw away. Now, if we were to set off from Sydney in our car and drive the greatest distance possible, we'd arrive at the picturesque seaside town of Exmouth in Australia, which is 2,000 miles (3,300 km) away as the crow flies, but it's a whopping 20,000 km journey on the Holway Round.

Exmouth, nestled within the stunning Cape Range, may be small, but it packs a punch. It is steeped in history, hosting a significant military base that adds a unique layer to its character. It also boasts some great breweries (thumbs up from Steve) and flora and fauna.

Watch out for Emus crossing the road in Exmouth!

Starfish, clams and fossils at Turquoise Bay & Oyster Stacks

Critter of the Week – Whale Shark

Before we hit Exmouth, we thought we’d missed the Whale Shark season, so didn't book ourselves on to a tour.  However, the word on the street was that these dotted giants were still around, and as there were deals to be had, we decided to take a chance and snaffled the last two spots on the boat.  Lucky for us, our risk was rewarded with an incredible day swimming with the largest fish in the ocean. 

Our legs look so tiny next to the Whale Shark

The Whale Shark smiling for the photographer as we swim behind

Thumbs up and smiles on a great day

The Whale Shark was the star of the show, but the Humpback Whales put on a show of their own close to our boat!

Everyone was on such a high after multiple dives with the Whale Shark, except for the poor little lad who spewed up everywhere (other than over the side of the boat 🙈).  Whilst we my review for Ningaloo Shark ‘n Dive was glowing, my hot tip for them would be to reconsider serving carrots for morning tea.

Big Things – Big Prawn

Aside big Whale Sharks, the other big thing you’ll find in Exmouth is the Big Prawn, an ode to the local prawning industry which is recognised as one of the best managed sustainable fisheries in the world producing 900 tonnes of wild-caught prawns annually.

Blue, Blue Ningaloo

Booking a beachside campsite in Ningaloo National Park is a tricky business.  These coveted spots are rare gems. Many people stay awake until the stroke of midnight 6 months in advance just to claim one, which is why we had to lock them in many moons ago.  As we rolled into our personal piece of paradise, it was clear what all the fuss was about.  We enjoyed 3 tranquil days at South Lefroy Bay, snorkeling right from the shore, blissfully unaware of the huge Tiger Shark sizing us up in the shallows.  

Needless to say, after that, our activities swiftly pivoted to beach combing, watching sunsets and Steve's favourite pastime - the solar panel shuffle.

Our camp set up at South Lefroy.  Bottom photo keeping it real, featuring Steve's socks 

Steve's cliche photo looks more like two boxing kangaroos than a love heart 

Word of the Week - Stealth

In the middle of our 6-day off grid adventure in Ningaloo, we visited the tiny remote town of Coral Bay.    With the rare luxury of 5G it was a treat to have some Facetime with family, but what about a simple shower?  Whilst Straighty 180 wouldn't dream of sneaking into the caravan park to steal a quick shower, with the stealth of the Tiger Shark, I seized the opportunity, and enjoyed a stolen shower.  Sure, salty kisses and sandy toes have their charm, but you can have too much of a good thing.

WA:  Windy As …

Our second off-grid camp at Ningaloo was at 14 Mile Beach.  The wind was too strong for fishing or snorkeling, so instead, we had a blast testing out the Defender's features on the sand dunes and belting out Beach Boys hits on Spotify.  

After a wild, windy night we were pleased to wake up with our camp set up intact, unlike our neighbour Neil's.

Five Finger Reef

A day after our Tiger Shark encounter, I forced myself to don my big girl pants along with my snorkeling gear to experience Five Finger Reef.  The local tourist guide had raved about it being the pinnacle of snorkeling spots, accessible only by a 4WD.  My selfish safety strategy was to find a bunch of kids, thinking they would pose a sweeter, more succulent snack for any lurking Jaws wannabe.  I’m so glad I mustered the courage, because the snorkelling here was extraordinary.  The clarity of the water and the abundance of marine life surpassed anything I've experienced, even outshining the Great Barrier Reef. 

Steve doing his Man from Atlantis impression at Five Finger Reef

Van Life

To avoid resembling the whales we’ve witnessed, we’ve capped our pie consumption to one a fortnight on this trip.  Steve’s best mod to the Defender – “the wooden flip down air-fryer station” – came into its own at Five Finger Reef.