Turquoise Bays and Majestic Rays

Beaches that Blow your Mind

The beaches we've encountered on our journey have been incredible, but the ones from the past two weeks are the real winners. Stretching miles of pristine white sand, crystal-clear turquoise waters, and the bliss of seclusion, it's no wonder they're often featured in the world's best beaches list year after year.

Beautiful Bremer Bay

Bremer Bay is a sleepy coastal hamlet nestled between Albany and Esperance.  

It is one of the few places in the world where you can see Orcas (Killer Whales) in their natural habitat.  Unfortunately, you need to be here between January and April to catch their performance.  Instead, we enjoyed a lively show by the Salty Sea Dogs at the Bremer Bay Brewery.  It was really fun to watch them bang out sea shanties with gusto.  We couldn’t help but sing along to the Drunken Sailor.

Word of the Week - "Shoofly"

As we’ve travelled along the south coast of WA, we’ve noticed that the flies are even friendlier than the good folk who live here.  Wearing our fly nets to avoid unintentionally inhaling these pesky little creatures has been essential.

No flies on us

While flapping away the flies, it's vital to stay focused on the path. Here are some reptiles that stopped us in our tracks.

Tiger Snake - Big Danger Noodle

King Skink

Accidental Starvation

Amidst my excitement of exploring this beautiful coastline, it dawned on my halfway to Esperance that we were set to arrive three days ahead of our booking.  This boo boo meant we needed to find an impromptu place to stay, and pronto.  Consulting our bible (aka WikiCamps) we found we were close to a place called Starvation Bay.  What a genius cock up!  It turned out to be a sensational little cove, named after French explorers who were marooned there in the 18 century and sadly succumbed to starvation.

Stunning Starvation Bay

Big Things – Big Fence

Another intriguing discovery is that if you stroll far enough along the beach at Starvation Bay, you'll come across the beginning of the Rabbit Proof Fence, constructed in the early 1900s. Spanning 1,200 kilometers, it was once the world's longest fence, extending from this point to Cape Keraudren in Northwest WA. However, the project turned out to be an epic failure.  It was doomed before it was even finished.  Little Thumpers found a way and were munching their way through their forbidden territory before you could say “What’s up Doc?”.

The remains of the wall that marks the start of the Rabbit Proof Fence

Esperance – Every Cloud Has a Silver Lining

Esperance - surely the jewel in the crown of WA.  Whilst we had some sunny days to chill out on Esperance's many beaches, we also had some overcast days too which were perfect for hitting the walking trails.

My two favourite Esperence Beaches.  Above:  Twilight Cove, home of Esperance Surf Life Saving Club.  Below, Blue Haven Beach

Below:  We left our clothes on at Free Beach - didn't want to scare those snakes and sharks 

Whilst Esperance is a bustling port for exporting iron ore, nickel and grain, it also boasts a charming esplanade and fantastic street art sponsored by local businesses, showcasing the town’s history and culture. On our travels I’ve noticed that street art seems to deter graffiti.  I don't know if the art instills community pride, or simply makes it harder to deface, but either way, I'm keen to see this idea spread to parts of Sydney's Northern Beaches.

Awesome Esperance Street Art

Lest We Forget

Being in Esperance for Remembrance Day and participating in the town's service was a privilege. It was heartbreaking to discover that during World War II, Esperance, with a population of only 300, sent 70 men to war, and tragically, 20 of them never returned.

Lucked Out – Another Brewery

Whilst the turquoise lagoons and pristine sands were a big pull to this area, Esperance’s Brewery, Lucky Bay Brewery, was a huge draw card for Steve.  It has been recommended to him so many times on this trip.   Our visit was made all the better, by catching up with some delightful travel buddies, Emma and Damian, who we first met when we camped at the Chocolate Shop in Pemberton and then again in Bremer Bay.  Live music, yummy wood-fired pizza, great companions and a huge selection of craft beer – all the ingredients for a fab night out.

Trading travel tales with Emma and Damian at Lucky Bay Brewery

It is said that beer is only rented for a few hours.  Well, it looks like this is a strongly held belief judging by the urinals at Lucky Bay Brewery!

From bladder to barrel in a flash

Stone the Crow!

Following our visit to Esperance, we explored the stunning Cape Le Grand National Park and surrounds, arriving at the picturesque Wharton Beach. Once again, the striking contrast of white sands and turquoise waters was breathtaking. It was there we encountered Donna from Brisbane and her goofy Labradoodle-Groodle cross, Ollie. Donna, who has been traveling solo - Ollie aside - inspired us with her journey of life and her lap of Oz.  Unfortunately, Donna dropped her car and caravan keys on the sand whilst walking and they were picked up by an opportunistic crow.  Fortunately, Steve managed to help her "access" her spare keys from her caravan, else she would have been stranded in paradise forever.

A walk and then a cuppa on the beach

Critter of the Week – Stingray

At Wharton Beach, a magnificent large stingray glided through the crystal-clear shallows, following us for about 200 meters.

Lucky Us at Lucky Bay

Lucky Bay, crowned the World's Best Beach in 2023, is so popular that securing a camping spot in the National Park is quite a challenge. Fortunately, we managed to book early and snagged a stay for a few nights. The bay was named by Matthew Flinders during his historic circumnavigation of Australia in 1802, where he used it as a safe anchorage.

We walked the length of the Bay to Rossiter Bay and around to Thistle Cove in the other direction.  While we didn’t see the kangaroos that famously lounge about on the pristine white sand, but did spot them tucking into some Pringles left carelessly outside a camper's tent.

Above:  Lucky Bay from the camp side end

Below:  Looking back on Lucky Bay from Rossiter Bay

Tessel Banksia – Relatable Flora

On our treks through this stunning region, we’ve come across the Tessel Banksia plant many times, sparking some philosophical thoughts.   At this time of year, some of its blossoms are vibrant, full of color and vitality, while others are, well, a little bit crusty around the edges.   Yet in its entirety, the whole plant is a metaphor for where I am in my life right now.  Sure, there are a few signs of aging from the many seasons I've been fortunate to enjoy, but I'm still charged with energy for adventures and experiences yet to come.  Wrap it all up in a plant like the Tessel Banksia, and it looks pretty damn beautiful.  

Camp Life

When the sun goes down (as it does very early in WA), we retreat to our cozy 1.5 square metre living/kitchen area, where entertainment becomes a challenge of its own. Over the last 9 months we have binge watched Gavin and Stacey (very late to that game), Yellowstone, and every British TV crime drama you can think of, on a very tiny Ipad (solar panels permitting).  Lately, we've taken up charades for fun. Can you figure out Steve’s movie!