Top Times in the Top End

Kaka – definitely – Du

Our first night in Kakadu was spent near Cooinda, where we hopped on mesmerizing sunset cruise across the Yellow Water Billabong.  The wildlife here is second to none. Covering vast wetlands, it is home to numerous species of native creatures that thrive in this environment.

What could possible go wrong 😁

Kakadu boasts a third of Australia’s bird species. An impressive amount of 60 species can be found in the wetlands.  On our cruise, we encountered Whistling Kites, Magpie Geese, Kingfisher, Jabirus, and Eagles and the Australasian Darter spreading its wings to dry.

Critter of the Week – The Jabiru

The Jabiru, armed with its razor-sharp beak, has the potential to kill a crocodile if it strikes in the right spot. At the Yellow River Billabong, they seemed to be quite comfortable in each other's presence.

Beware, Crocs Crossing at Cahill

After leaving Cooinda, we headed to Jabiru to discover more of Kakadu National Park. A standout experience was Cahill Crossing on the East Arnem border. Home to the densest population of saltwater crocodiles in the Northern Territory, and with tides that rise swiftly, it's known as the most dangerous crossing in the area.  We were captivated for hours, watching the crocs fishing for barramundi with one eye, and the brave vehicles going in for the wade, with the other.  I realised my inner evil as I caught myself secretly hoping a car would stall and get chomped (which has happened before).

Waiting for Barramundi or stalled vehicles

Brave or stupid?  You decide.

A short drive from Cahill, we endured the 36-degree heat to visit Ubirr. Ubirr is renowned for its ancient rock art, showcasing some of Kakadu's most significant ancestral figures. The artwork there is among the world's finest, each piece rich with stories and history, some dating back thousands of years. Ubirr also offers panoramic views of Kakadu, making it an ideal spot for sunset viewing. However, traveling without a bull bar, we decided against risking a kangaroo collision at dusk that could put the kibosh on the rest of our trip.

Our New Ulti Buddies

Arriving at Kakadu Lodge camp in Jabiru, we were thrilled to spot an Ulti – not an elusive Aussie animal, but a kindred Ultimate Camper Trailer. It was wonderful to connect with Denise and Stephen, who live not far from us in Avalon. We exchanged adventure stories over a glass of wine, which was even more special as we celebrated Stephen's birthday. Here's to hoping our paths cross again on another Ulti journey, or perhaps back home on the Northern Beaches.

Ultimates together at Kakadu Lodge

Purple Mango – the Best Closed Brewery Ever

Following Denise and Stephen's recommendation, we set up our next camp at the Purple Mango Brewery in Marrakai. We've stayed at several pubs during our Big Lap, but this was our first time camping at a craft micro-brewery. Can you even imagine Steve's excitement!!  Although it was officially closed for brewing day, the owner, Adam, kindly welcomed us, whipped up a gourmet pizza feast, and played State of Origin 2 for us and our diverse group of campers from the Netherlands, NT, NSW, and WA. Luckily, there wasn't a Queenslander in sight.  The mango beer and the mango daiquiri made the Blue's victory even sweeter.

Even the cane toad (bottom left) was impressed by the Blues' 38-18 triumph

Darwin Goes Crackers on Territory Day

By sheer fluke, we found ourselves in Darwin on Territory Day, a public holiday that commemorates the Northern Territory's attainment of self-governance from the Commonwealth Government.  It’s a day when Territorians come together to officially celebrate everything they love about their unique home. The holiday is popularly known as “Cracker Night.” During this time, you have a five-hour window to legally blow up fireworks anywhere you please, making it the only place in Australia you can do this.  Having heard wild tales about the firework frenzy, and eager to retain our eyes, limbs etc, we opted for a stroll to the beach near our campsite.  As you can see from the video, it was like a scene from Beirut on a bad night!  Fun though!  Next time we come back to Darwin, it will be on 1 July.

Hurray for the Sunset

We loved our first visit to Darwin and wished we could have stayed longer.  During our 6 days, we stomped all over this historic city.  I swear I’m even shorter now!  Our favourite walk was from Mindil Beach to East Point at sunset.   One of the quirky things that happens in Darwin, is the collective applause that erupts as the sun dips below the horizon.  Initially, I found it a bit corny, but I've come to see it as a beautiful expression of gratitude by those gathered to witness yet another day's end on Earth - a privilege not granted to so many.

Litchfield National Park

During our journey, we encountered travellers who were split between visiting Kakadu and Litchfield National Parks. I'm so glad we chose to explore both, as each are so uniquely different and beautiful. In Litchfield, you could fill two weeks visiting a new waterfall each day. But with only two days at our disposal, we had to pick and choose, so opted for Wangi Falls, Cascades, Florence Falls, and Buley Rockpools.

Magnetic Termites

As we’ve ventured north, I've become captivated by termite mounds and the tiny architects behind these impressive structures. It's intriguing to learn that termites are blind, yet they have an innate magnetic compass that guides them to build towers with one side perpetually shaded. These termites play a crucial role in their ecosystem, just like garden earth worms.

Gorgeous Gorges of Katherine

Based at Katherine, we dedicated a day exploring Edith Gorge on our own on our way up to Darwin, and then two weeks later (today) did a boat and walking tour to three other Gorges in the Nitmiluk National Park (aka Katherine Gorge) on the journey south.  They are both jaw-dropping gorgeous in every sense.

Edith Falls

Katherine Gorge 

A freshwater croc (the friendlier of the two) sunbaking at Katherine Gorge

...  Heading west tomorrow.  WA here we come.