It’s been more
than two months since our last state border crossing, so entering the Northern Territory this
week was always going to be a memorable milestone. However, the intense and frightening situations other travellers have faced really brought it home for us just how far “Up S*&!@ Creek" we’d be if we encountered similar issues.
Thanks, Ludwig!
After dodging near fisty cuffs between locals in the pub and experiencing a sleepless night peppered with random screams and howls close in our campsite that weren't from dingos, we were very keen to leave Normanton in search of safety and tranquility. We hit the jackpot when we stumbled across Leichhardt Falls, a stunning plunge waterfall on the Leichardt River. The area is named after the eccentric German explorer who made a spectacular disappearance without trace while crossing the Top End in 1848. We hope our exploration won't end as his did. Due to the resident crocodiles, we set up camp on the rocky ground beside the falls, soaking in the beauty and serenity of the view.
The Road to Hell
Intrigued by its dramatic name, we decided to make Hell’s Gate Roadhouse our next stope for the night. This cattle station is situated just 50 kms from the Northern Territory Border. The roadhouse derives its name from a small gap in the escarpment about 1km south where the road passes through that gap called Hell's Gate. In the early days the police would escort settlers and travellers there and called it Hell's Gate because once passed the gap, the travellers were on their own until they reached the safety of police protection at Katherine in the Northern Territory. In those days Hell's Gate was largely unexplored and considered to be dangerous, the name was quite appropriate 👿.
Grateful for the warm welcome, steaming showers, and a scrumptious meal, we concluded that Hell's Gate was less of an inferno and more of a celestial retreat 😇.
Teaching them young! Family members doing their chores. Love the OH&S!
Hell's Gate Roadhouse has its own airstrip out the front
New Territory –
Northern Territory
With limited safe camping options beyond Hell's Gate and Meatloaf's 'Bat out of Hell' setting the mood on Spotify, we hit the accelerator along the red, dusty road, aiming to cover as much ground as possible before reaching Limmen National Park - a vast 10,000 square kilometre sanctuary at the base of Arnhem Land. What could possibly go wrong, right?
One of many water crossings. All in a day's work for the Defender
Bush Breakdown
Roughly an hour from our destination, we encountered a young Dutch family in distress. Their Prado's radiator fan had broken after a hasty water crossing, leaving their engine emitting smoke and steam – not a good sign for a quick repair. The only help we could offer was the use of our Starlink (internet/phone). As dusk approached and help seemed unlikely, we decided to stick together and head for the Southern Lost City Campground, 4 km away, despite it being closed from a bushfire the previous year. The road conditions and our remote location meant that neither roadside nor towing services would come to their aid. Following an anxious nigh the family managed to contact the ranger the next morning, who offered refuge at the Nathan River Ranger Station, giving them a chance to plan their next steps – a likely slow and costly resolution for this lovely family.
Ruben, Viki, the twins and the Ranger relieved to be rescued. Here we were: 4 Dutch, 2 Poms and 1 South African in the wild Australian Outback!
Our unplanned detour to the Lost City had a silver lining. As we waited for the ranger, we seized the chance to wander among the spectacular sandstone spires which were formed around 1.5 billion years ago. It was a mind-blowing surprise in the midst of a crisis.
Impromptu Camp at the Southern Lost City
Critter of the Week – The Crow Butterfly
Having bid farewell to our Dutch buddies, confident they were safe with the ranger, we drove further into the Park and set up camp at Butterfly Falls. To our amazement, right beside the falls, we stumbled upon an enormous colony of Crow Butterflies near the cascading water.
Crazy Butterfly video clip
Mauled by Mongrels
The ordeal of the Dutch family pales in comparison to a woman's story we heard at Butterfly Falls. Just the day before, her husband had gone to the toilet behind a fuel stop, and despite assurances from the owner about the friendliness of his dogs, he was brutally attacked and had to be airlifted to a Darwin hospital. His wife, unable to accompany him, faced the daunting task of driving their camper trailer 2,500 km back to Airlie Beach alone. Maybe this really was the road to Hell after all.
Hot Springs, Hot Cakes and a rather Hot “Mr Whippy”
Feeling relieved to leave the bush behind, we made our way to the Little Roper Stock Camp in Mataranka for a few days. This true-blue Aussie bush camp offered us a genuine slice of the Territory life. Conveniently situated a short distance from the thermal Bitter Springs and Mataranka Springs, these are two of the Territory's finest waterholes, both maintaining a steady temperature of 30 degrees Celsius.
Floating down around Bitter Springs (trying not to think about the wildlife lurking beneath)
We set up camp next to a friendly Buffalo called "Mad Mullet" and enjoyed the communal breakfast of Billy tea and delectable “Johnny Cakes” which seem to be a delightful hybrid of donuts and scones.
Mad Mullet
Johnny Cakes - the best thing since sliced bread
"A Place to Enjoy" - apparently 😝
Mataranka has heaps of history. I plan to watch the movie called We of the Never Never to learn more
The Termite Mounds in the NT seem to have more attitude than the QLD ones 😏
His rendition of ACDC's TNT is worth a watch:
Hi I want to be there you are having a trip of a life time I loved the butterflys always be careful. Tove to you both GMG
ReplyDeleteThanks Uncle G. Wish you were here too 🤗
DeleteKeep them coming enjoy read all about your trip
ReplyDeleteThank you!
ReplyDelete