Walking Amongst Giants

Chocolate Box Camping

In our quest for unique camping spots, we stumbled upon the Southern Forests Chocolate Company near Pemberton.  At $15 a night fee it was a sweet deal which meant we had extra pennies to sample the artisan chocolate and indulge in the most amazing hot chocolate that we’ve ever tasted. 

Big Things – Big Trees

To burn off the calories we punished ourselves with a grueling hike through Gloucester National Park, surrounded by the terrifyingly tall Karri Trees.

In this region, you can ascend three fire lookout trees, the tallest being the Dave Evans Bicentennial Tree which was pegged in 1988 as part of Australia’s bicentennial celebrations.  

At 68 metres above the forest floor, it is the world's highest treetop lookout in the world.  Although climbing to the very top was prohibited last year due to it being deemed too perilous even for Aussie standards, but you can scramble up a lofty 20 metres if you can stomach it.  Well, let me tell you, Steve scaled it as fast as a rat up a drainpipe on a sugar rush (must have been all that chocolate he ate).  He likened it to climbing the mast on Quantock, always eager to satisfy his sailing passion even in the absence of a yacht.  

Above:  Steve on his Hari-Kari mission up the Karri Tree

Below:  Steve at the highest point that you are allowed to climb (only halfway!)

Loved to Death

In addition to the towering Karri Trees, the Tingle Trees stand impressively large. We visited a Giant Tingle Tree with a 24-metre girth, aged over 400 years.

Steve in the Giant Tingle Tree, Walpole

Previously, another enormous Tingle Tree in the area was a popular attraction, where visitors would drive into its hollow trunk for a unique photo opportunity. However, despite their impressive height, Tingle Trees have quite shallow root systems. Sadly, this tree fell in 1990 due to soil compaction around its roots due to people using it as a drive thru'. The silver lining was that this tree's fall led to the creation of the Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk, allowing visitors to wander through the ancient tingle forest with little to no impact on the environment. Suspended 40 metres high, the skywalk provides a rare chance to walk among the treetops of the towering Tingle Trees. 

Above: Mhairi holding on to the railing very tightly on the wobbly walkway 

Below: The last car to drive through the ill-fated Tingle Tree was a Holden

Word of the Week - WOW!!!

In awe of the giant trees in this region, we used this word a lot.  And we were particularly "wowed by Walpole".

You could easily blink and miss this tiny town, but we were really glad to stay here for 3 days, camping on a gorgeous site by the beach.  

WOW is also the name of a fabulous cruise we went on - The WOW Wilderness Eco Cruise.  It was a standout experience all thanks to Gary "Gazza" Muir, the tour guide and boat owner. His knowledge of Walpole, the universe and everything is incredible.  Such an engaging, funny man.

Above:  Gazza teaching us about science, history, and everything Walpole

Below:  Wading through a snake infested swamp to reach a magnificent Melaleuca Tree (aka the Paperbark Tree)

Apparently, the town of Walpole is "chocka blocka full of Quokka", to quote Gazza.  Unlike Rottnest Island, the ones in Walpole are nocturnal, which meant no Quokka selfies for us, unfortunately.  However, there were lots of other wildlife to get excited about.

Critter of the Week – Australian Ringneck Parrot

Also known as the Twenty-Eight Parrot because the botanist who discovered it thought its squawk sounded like the French word for 28 (vingt-huit) – “van tweet”. Another theory is that it takes 28 parrots to make a pie.  Steve was ready to make a pie when this pretty polly stole his glasses.  

Above:  Steve getting his pirate on with the 28

Below:  Footage of the pesky pilfering parrot stealing Steve's specs

Camp Life

Taking advantage of a powered site, it's the perfect opportunity to fill the freezer with healthy meals.  Roo Rogan Josh, anyone? 😋

What’s that Skippy? Mhairi’s whipping up another batch of Butter Chicken in the Thermie?

Delicious Denmark

Heading east along the coast, we reached the charming little town of Denmark boasting breathtaking landscapes, crystal-clear waters, and a vibrant food and wine scene.  It’s pretty easy to fall in love with this place.

We stayed in a quaint little caravan park on a river bend, a perfect spot to explore the area.  We visited the renowned Elephant Rocks and Green Pool.  It was a bit chilly for a dip, so we hit Boston Brewery, Bartholomew's Meadery, Ducket’s Mill for some cheese and Singlefile Winery.

Above: Elephant Rocks just outside of Denmark

Below: Trying to find the Queen of the hive whilst tucking into Salted Honey Ice-cream at Bartholomew's Meadery

Above:  So much yummy food at Ducketts Mill, we had to take a doggy bag

Below:  Single File Winery - dangerously close to our camp

On a cool day, we took a hike through Porongurup National Park to tackle the lung-busting Castle Rock Trail, leading to the massive granite dome that is Castle Rock.  The ascent's climax involved scaling a 7-meter ladder to reach the Granite Skywalk – that was the heart-pumping part!  Nerves conquered; the view was spectacular, with vistas stretching to Albany.  

Above: Balancing Rock on the hike to Castle Rock

Below:  View of Castle Rock and the Granite Sky Walk (not my photo!).  If I'd seen this photo beforehand, I wouldn't have done it 😅

Following a less daunting descent, we drove to historic Albany to visit the Brig Amity replica and the old Whaling Station.

Above:  Steve at the helm of the Brig Amity

Below:  Original Whaling Boat at Albany

Mop Chop Discrimination

Not to be outdone by Steve looking schmick with another one of his DIY haircuts at camp, I decided to get a trim while in Albany.  But after three hairdressers gave me the 'see you in three weeks' line (and I was only in town for the arvo), I resorted to the dodgy barber’s shop against my better judgement.

Red Flag 1:  It had the classy name of 'Scissorhands'.

Red Flag 2:  The hairdresser (loose term) looked like Kath (from Kath n Kim) who had been dragged through a fuzz bush backwards.

Red Flag 3:  Scribbled note on the mirror “If I find eggs or nits in your hair, I will abandon your cut immediately”.

There was also a big sign declaring “cash only”.  To make sure I had enough coinage for "Kath", I asked the price for a trim.  "it's $25 for guys, $50 for girls"!

Despite all the warning signs, with such an apparent skills shortage of hairdressers in this part of the world, I was desperate, so forked over the cash for a 10-minute chop.   Lucky, I have lots of hats on this trip!

And Finally ...

No standout lavatory signage spotted this week, but this personalised rego plate did make us chuckle.  Prado drivers clearly love their food!

Friends, Felons and Fermentations

Fun Times in Freo

After a month-long break to care for our pup while the kids enjoyed their own holiday in Europe (how dare they!), we returned to Perth to resume our anticlockwise lap of the Holway ‘Round.  

Choosing to stay in Fremantle over Perth was a great decision.  Freo really packs a punch with its rich history, vibrant arts and culture scene, and fantastic breweries.  It definitely makes it into our top five places to live in Australia, and that's saying something!  

Amazing street art on the side of East West furniture store

Steve next to one of his hero's, Bon Scott (ACDC), who spent his childhood in Freo

A real highlight was catching with my friends Wendy and Meena and their husbands Paul and Martin. We're so grateful to Wendy and Paul for allowing us to park our car and van at their farm during our Sydney séjour.

A great night at Gage Roads Brewery

The Felons of Fremantle

Fremantle Prison stands as the largest convict-built structure in Western Australia and the most preserved convict site in the whole of Australia. It's notorious for its harsh conditions; the cells were cramped, and the living standards were dreadful. Although deemed unfit for occupancy in 1983, it continued to function until 1991. 

Our tour guide, a former prison officer, had served 35 years before retiring last year. Yet, she returned, drawn back to what locals fondly call "the Establishment." She shared tales of crafty escapes and notorious inmates, noting that the women were particularly evil. 

The prison has certainly retained an energy. Interestingly, the women's wing now serves as a YHA hostel, offering cheap tourist accommodation for travellers. No thank you, we'll stick to our farm stays!

The net in the photo below served two purposes.   1 - a suicide net.  2 - to catch the toilet buckets that inmates would regularly throw down.  Whilst it didn't stop the guards receiving a gross shower, at least they didn't get knocked out.

Perth the Pleasure Dome

While we didn’t stay in Perth, we popped into the city for the Defender's first service.  After putting it through its paces on the Holway ‘Round, the girl really a ‘spa day’.  In the meantime, we took the opportunity to explore Perth's suburbs with the courtesy Range Rover. It was quite amusing to see that every suburb seems to have its own sex shop nestled among the local bakeries and cafes. We even spotted an "Adult Mega Store" right beside a prominent law firm.  We didn't venture in; we opted to get our kicks from putting on our kicks to hoof around Kings Park.  At nearly 1,000 acres, it is one of the world’s largest inner-city parks, even bigger than Central Park in NY. 

Queen Victoria in Kings Park - clearly not amused by Perth's sex shop boom 😏

Lucky for us, the wildflower season is still blooming lovely in Kings Park

We visited Kings Park on the 22nd anniversary of the Bali Bombing.  Coincidentally, we've been watching Bali 2002 on Stan, so the names on the memorial were very familiar to us.

Big Things – Big Jetty

Our next stop on our way South was Busselton, home of the longest timber-piled jetty in the Southern Hemisphere, extending nearly 2km out into Geographe Bay.  

End of the jetty, and a long way from home!

At the end of the jetty there is an underwater observatory providing a unique opportunity to see a variety of marine life, including fish, sea anemones, and coral.

Poor Little Timothee Vasse

Just outside Busselton, we found ourselves at Wayne and Wendy's Lawn Farm in Vasse. If I ever chose farming, I reckon lawn farming would be the way to go – seems like a pretty cruisy gig!

Camping on the lawn farm in Vasse

Vasse got its name from a young sailor, Timothee Vasse. He was the helmsman aboard the French vessel, Le Geographe, back in 1801. Caught in a fierce storm, he was swept overboard and vanished. The captain circled back to search for him but eventually had to accept that Timothee was lost at sea. Decades later, local Indigenous people led British settlers to a grave – that of a young white fella who'd spend his days gazing out to sea, waiting for his ship to return for him.  

Me and Timothee Vasse

Margaret River Delights

Margaret River, with its abundance of over 90 wineries and numerous breweries, is a delightfully perilous place to linger! In the spirit of marital equality, Steve played chauffeur for a day of winery tours, and I returned the favour the next day with a brewery expedition. Red Gate Winery stood out as my top pick, offering free tastings of 17 different wines (would have been rude not to try them all). It's no surprise that our portable wine collection has expanded significantly. As for Steve, he was particularly fond of the Margaret River Brewing Company, which not only crafts excellent beer but also serves a superb Sunday Roast complete with Yorkshire Puddings (not quite as good as mine, but not bad).

Critter of the Week – Margaret River Lamb

We love a good farm stay, so we chose to stay at a sheep farm whilst in Margaret River.  The lambs frolicking in the fields were adorable, but the lamb chops in the farm shop looked too tasty for sentimentality to kick in.  It truly was an authentic paddock-to-plate experience.

Margaret, from Big Valley Sheep Farm, Margaret River

Walkers Wonderland

To offset the naughty beverages consumed during our stay in the Margaret River region, we took full advantage of the stunning hikes available. We tackled parts of the renowned Cape to Cape walk. 

Walking through the Pink Petticoats to get to Quinninup Falls 

Surfer's Point, where the Margaret River Pro takes place

We also did a long walk around town, which has changed a lot in the 13 years since our last visit.

My ongoing amusement with bathroom signage was sparked again by a curious sign in town. Who on Earth could bathe in such a tiny sink? 😄

Flowers, Flies and a Nice Surprise

From the Coral Coast to the Turquoise Coast

This week, we've travelled an epic 1,000 kms south along Western Australia's stunning coastline from Ningaloo on the Coral Coast, down to Cervantes on the Turquoise Coast, hugging the Indian Ocean on Steve's side of the car.

Nature's Window, Kalbari

What a Fruit Loop!

As we journeyed through Carnarvon, we were delighted to discover the "Fruit Loop" Driving Trail, home to heaps of plantations that yield 80% of Western Australia's fruits and vegetables. We stopped by an organic farm and, for a mere $9, we scored several punnets of cherry tomatoes, a huge juicy pomelo, and fresh veggies - a truly sweet bargain.

Lovely bunches of bananas in the farm shop

A Delightful Surprise in Denham

Denham, the only town in the World Heritage Area of Shark Bay, served as our picturesque seaside base for exploring the region. After a nearly 7-hour drive, which included a 130 km detour off the main highway, we arrived and got the best surprise ever when we were greeted by our good friends Daryl and Mary. 

We had originally met these wonderful folks on the Gibb River Road in mid-July and have shared many memorable times together. Although we had said our goodbyes a few weeks prior, thinking our paths were diverging, they surprised us by altering their plans for one final "hurrah" together, and what a fun night it was.  We can't wait to visit Daryl and Mary in Strathbogie when our travels eventually take us there.

Monkey M.I.A (Missing In Action)

One of the main reasons people take the long pilgrimage to the Shark Bay area is to visit Monkey Mia where wild Indo-Pacific Bottlenose dolphins have been gracing the shores every day for decades.  Unfortunately, on the day we chose to visit, the dolphins were a no-show.  Clearly, they had bigger fish to fry!

No monkeys and no dolphins. 

 I spent all day gazing at the spot below ... watching and waiting. 

We decided to make the best of it and explore other attractions in the area, which promised more guaranteed sightings.  The highlights include:

• Denham's Discovery Centre hosting a captivating permanent 3D exhibition known as 'Fire on the Water.' This free display chronicles the tragic WWII encounter in Shark Bay where the German raider Kormoran, camouflaged as a commercial vessel with its hidden artillery, ambushed the HMAS Sydney II, resulting in the loss of its 645 crew members.

• Shell Beach, a beach is made up of millions of coquina shells without a grain of sand in sight.  

• The stromatolites at Hamelin Pool are like nature’s time capsules, giving us a peek into what life was like around 3.5 billion years ago. These “living fossils”, found in just a couple of other salty lagoons on the planet, are some of the oldest life forms on Earth.  These ancient wonders were the first ever organisms to produce oxygen.  Without them, life wouldn’t even exist.  That’s quite a mind-blowing thought!

Stromatolites at Hamlin Pool, Shark Bay

Word of the Week – Feral

I love the way Australians use the word feral to depict rowdy teenagers or littering tourists.  However, this week, we've seen the word used in the true sense, with some inventive measures targeting feral animals.   For example, the bathrooms in this area are waterless to deter “feral” bees.  

Mhairi is obsessed by signs in toilets

Shark Bay also features a "barking fence" equipped with a sensor that emits a loud woofing sound to scare away feral foxes, cats, and goats. Skeptical, I nagged Steve to stop the car so I could mimic a "feral" and trigger the noise. The volume was so loud that it made me jump out of my skin!  My first video had expletives, so here's my child-friendly version.

Kalbari – A Treasure Trove of Natural Wonders

Traveling a few hundred kilometers down the coast, it was amazing to see the scenery transform before our eyes.  With its pristine beaches and gorges, Kalbari is a nature lovers paradise at the best of times.  However, September's wildflower season brings Kalbarri to life in a spectacular display of blooms. Unfortunately, it also means the flies are very friendly here.  The unsexy flynet accessory that I’d bought at the camping and caravanning show many moons ago, finally got its time to shine!  After a minute of relentless attack, I donned mine with pride.  Steve, being the vain trooper that he is, persevered with the classic Aussie wave, battling the air around him like a man possessed, and consuming a few protein bullets in the process.

Island Rock, Kalbari, where we watched a mummy humpback whale 
teach her calf to breach and perform tail slaps.

Natural Bridge and some of the wildflowers in Kalbari

Critter of the Week – Emu

As we drove around the Kalbari coastline, it was a treat to see a family of Emus strutting their stuff.  Apparently, the emu and kangaroo feature on the Australian Coat of Arms because they're two creatures that can't walk backwards, symbolising the nation’s commitment to progress.

Steve's Brewery Tour of Australia

As I journal our adventure, Steve journals his brewery experiences on the "Untapped" ale-rater app.  It's an important and serious business 😏.  

Impressed with "Finlays" in Kalbari, we had to go here twice.

Pink Lake

Leaving Kalbari, we opted for the scenic Indian Ocean Drive route south so that we could see the stunning natural wonder of Hutt Lagoon.  The vibrant pink hue is caused by salt-loving algae.  Pretty to look at, but awful to swim in.  The colour can vary from bubble gum pink to lilac depending on the time of day.

Hutt Lagoon, Port Gregory

Blue Tree 💙

While circumnavigating Australia, we've come across the occasional dead tree painted bright blue in random, often remote places. I recently learned that this is part of The Blue Tree Project, an initiative that began in Western Australia. Its mission is to raise awareness about mental health by encouraging people to paint dead trees blue. These blue trees serve as visual reminders to spark conversations about mental health and to check in on loved ones who might be struggling.  The movement started in memory of Jayden Whyte, who tragically took his own life in 2018. His mates painted a tree blue in his memory, and this act has since grown into a widespread campaign globally.  Now, whenever I see a blue tree, it brings thoughts of my beautiful cousin, David who we lost 6 and half years ago.  Coincidentally, the most recent one I spotted this week, and just a few days out from R U OK Day, was near the town of Northampton, where David spent his childhood in the UK.  

Blue Tree in Northampton

Gero - Don't Go

Geraldton has earned its spot in our top three places to skip next time. In hindsight, camping for two days on the beach in one of Australia's windiest cities, with winds forecasted at 25 knots, might not have been the wisest decision. Steve said that trying to secure the awning in the midst of the roaring storm at 2 am reminded him of navigating the Bass Strait during the Sydney to Hobart yacht race.  

Peculiar Pinnacles and Lobster Lunch

Exhausted, we rolled into the Spanish-named town of Cervantes.  After a recovery day, we explored the Pinnacles Desert nearby.  It's like a lunar landscape filled with rock pillars that look like tombstones.  Whilst there are some theories of how they came to be, nobody really knows.  

One thing's for sure, the Galahs love nesting on these strange stone enigmas, although the pair I filmed seemed to find me equally peculiar judging by their body language!

Another highlight of Cervantes is dining at the Lobster Shack. The town boasts a massive lobster processing facility capable of housing 20 tonnes of lobsters.  We settled for just a lobster roll each, and it was divine.