Whale Shark of a Time on the Coral Coast

Exmouth – A Town Far, Far Away

Back when we resided in the UK, the charming seaside town of Exmouth was just a stone's throw away. Now, if we were to set off from Sydney in our car and drive the greatest distance possible, we'd arrive at the picturesque seaside town of Exmouth in Australia, which is 2,000 miles (3,300 km) away as the crow flies, but it's a whopping 20,000 km journey on the Holway Round.

Exmouth, nestled within the stunning Cape Range, may be small, but it packs a punch. It is steeped in history, hosting a significant military base that adds a unique layer to its character. It also boasts some great breweries (thumbs up from Steve) and flora and fauna.

Watch out for Emus crossing the road in Exmouth!

Starfish, clams and fossils at Turquoise Bay & Oyster Stacks

Critter of the Week – Whale Shark

Before we hit Exmouth, we thought we’d missed the Whale Shark season, so didn't book ourselves on to a tour.  However, the word on the street was that these dotted giants were still around, and as there were deals to be had, we decided to take a chance and snaffled the last two spots on the boat.  Lucky for us, our risk was rewarded with an incredible day swimming with the largest fish in the ocean. 

Our legs look so tiny next to the Whale Shark

The Whale Shark smiling for the photographer as we swim behind

Thumbs up and smiles on a great day

The Whale Shark was the star of the show, but the Humpback Whales put on a show of their own close to our boat!

Everyone was on such a high after multiple dives with the Whale Shark, except for the poor little lad who spewed up everywhere (other than over the side of the boat 🙈).  Whilst we my review for Ningaloo Shark ‘n Dive was glowing, my hot tip for them would be to reconsider serving carrots for morning tea.

Big Things – Big Prawn

Aside big Whale Sharks, the other big thing you’ll find in Exmouth is the Big Prawn, an ode to the local prawning industry which is recognised as one of the best managed sustainable fisheries in the world producing 900 tonnes of wild-caught prawns annually.

Blue, Blue Ningaloo

Booking a beachside campsite in Ningaloo National Park is a tricky business.  These coveted spots are rare gems. Many people stay awake until the stroke of midnight 6 months in advance just to claim one, which is why we had to lock them in many moons ago.  As we rolled into our personal piece of paradise, it was clear what all the fuss was about.  We enjoyed 3 tranquil days at South Lefroy Bay, snorkeling right from the shore, blissfully unaware of the huge Tiger Shark sizing us up in the shallows.  

Needless to say, after that, our activities swiftly pivoted to beach combing, watching sunsets and Steve's favourite pastime - the solar panel shuffle.

Our camp set up at South Lefroy.  Bottom photo keeping it real, featuring Steve's socks 

Steve's cliche photo looks more like two boxing kangaroos than a love heart 

Word of the Week - Stealth

In the middle of our 6-day off grid adventure in Ningaloo, we visited the tiny remote town of Coral Bay.    With the rare luxury of 5G it was a treat to have some Facetime with family, but what about a simple shower?  Whilst Straighty 180 wouldn't dream of sneaking into the caravan park to steal a quick shower, with the stealth of the Tiger Shark, I seized the opportunity, and enjoyed a stolen shower.  Sure, salty kisses and sandy toes have their charm, but you can have too much of a good thing.

WA:  Windy As …

Our second off-grid camp at Ningaloo was at 14 Mile Beach.  The wind was too strong for fishing or snorkeling, so instead, we had a blast testing out the Defender's features on the sand dunes and belting out Beach Boys hits on Spotify.  

After a wild, windy night we were pleased to wake up with our camp set up intact, unlike our neighbour Neil's.

Five Finger Reef

A day after our Tiger Shark encounter, I forced myself to don my big girl pants along with my snorkeling gear to experience Five Finger Reef.  The local tourist guide had raved about it being the pinnacle of snorkeling spots, accessible only by a 4WD.  My selfish safety strategy was to find a bunch of kids, thinking they would pose a sweeter, more succulent snack for any lurking Jaws wannabe.  I’m so glad I mustered the courage, because the snorkelling here was extraordinary.  The clarity of the water and the abundance of marine life surpassed anything I've experienced, even outshining the Great Barrier Reef. 

Steve doing his Man from Atlantis impression at Five Finger Reef

Van Life

To avoid resembling the whales we’ve witnessed, we’ve capped our pie consumption to one a fortnight on this trip.  Steve’s best mod to the Defender – “the wooden flip down air-fryer station” – came into its own at Five Finger Reef.

Oresome, Awesome Pilbara

The Pilbara – Rich in More Ways than One

Following a refreshing coastal interlude, we delved once again into the red expanse of the outback to experience the unique beauty of the Pilbara region. The Pilbara is globally renowned for its breathtaking landscapes, vast iron ore deposits, and geological significance, as it houses some of our planet's oldest rocks and geological formations.  For perspective, the Pilbara is double the size of the UK and stretches back 3.5-4.3 billion years.

Marble Bar – A Warm Welcome from Australia’s Hottest Town

Our first stop in the Pilbara was a free camp at Doolena Gorge, located just north of Marble Bar.  Interestingly, Marble Bar gets its name after a supposed colourful marble bar that crosses the Coongan River. Turns out the rock is in fact jasper, but the name stuck.

Despite being in the depths of darkest winter, it was 32 degrees on the day we visited, so we were looking forward to sinking a cold one in the famous Ironclad Hotel (so called for its thick stone walls that repel the heat).  Unlucky for us, the pub is closed on Mondays, so we had a laugh about being in Marble Bar that has no marble and no bar 😆.  Instead, we explored the museum and learned that Marble Bar has proudly held the title of Australia’s hottest town for exactly 100 years.

Karijini - A Kick-Ass Kind of Place

Given that the Pilbara is such an economic powerhouse with its massive iron ore mining operation, I found it “iron-ic” that tucked away in the middle of all that is the natural wonderland of Karijini National Park.

Karijini, distinct from the stunning gorges we visited in the Kimberley, was just as captivating. During our two-day stay, we explored Dales Gorge, Fortescue Falls, Fern Pool, Kalamina Gorge, Weano Gorge, and Hamersley Gorge.

Dales Gorge above, Kalamina Gorge below

Fortescue Falls above, Hammersley Gorge below

For all its beauty, Karijini is not for the faint-hearted.  With my HR hat on, I couldn't help myself risk-assess the place for OHS hazards:

• Some of the gorges are pretty hard core.  Despite the signs encouraging you to be careful (and specifically advising you not to attempt them pissed 😵), I was surprised by how easily you could fall to your death whilst transcending the steep, slippery rock faces (and many people have).  

• The park is home to a host of venomous snakes that will take you out given half a chance.  Death Adders and King Browns have got their fangs into a few hikers in recent times.  I almost stood on a snake myself, but didn’t hang around to take his mug shot.

• As you wander, you will pass remnants of deadly blue asbestos, a grim reminder of the nearby ghost town of Wittenoom, notorious for its asbestos-related fatalities that inspired Midnight Oil’s hit song "Blue Sky Mine".  Reflecting on the lyrics, it's poignant to consider the thousands who have perished and continue to suffer due to exposure. 

Critter of the Week – Millipedes

And yet, amidst all these lethal hazards, we were gob smacked to be stopped in our tracks by Millipedes of all things!

Word of the Week – Ouch!!

The Pilbara is home to a myriad of plant species that have uniquely adapted to thrive in its challenging climate conditions, characterised by low rainfall levels.  The plant you can’t miss is the Spinifex grass is a resilient plant species known for its ability to grow in infertile soils while conserving water.  I re-named it the Haggis Plant because it reminds me of the Haggis creatures that roam the Highlands of Scotland (in my imagination).  Whilst they look like innocent golden pom poms, when you are on hike, it is wise not to grab them to steady yourself, because they that hurts a lot.  Ouch!!

A much kinder, and prettier plant that we saw a lot amidst the stark desert landscape is the Sturt's Desert Pea.

Ripper Rocks

Geologists can seriously get their rocks off in Karijini.  I wish I could get my head around the science because the rocks are simply mind-blowing.  Here are a couple we came across along our hike at Dales Gorge.  

Zebra Rock above, Iron Ore below

Tom Price – A Top Town

At 747m above sea level, Tom Price stands as the highest town in Western Australia. Purpose built by the mining giant Rio Tinto, it's an affluent oasis in the middle of nowhere. After several days of bush camping, the prospect of a proper shower, fresh laundry, and a Coles supermarket visit was lush - small things we used to take for granted!

Around Tom Price, you can't help but be awed by the colossal, driverless trains hauling an impressive 28,000 tons of iron ore from the local mine to Karratha's port. Rio Tinto boasts that this automated train network is the largest robot in the world. Capturing one on video as it crossed our path, I managed to get a sense of the immense length of these iron giants. Here's the clip, sped up for effect.

Big Things - Big Trucks

We have come to love a good cattle station stay during our travels; they offer more luxury than a free camp, but without the frills of a caravan park.  At Cheela Plains, there was a humungous graveyard of former mining trucks out back.  

I couldn't resist ignoring the Do Not Enter sign just to get a snap for scale.

At Bullarra Station, the Aussie humour is in as much abundance as the cattle that roam freely around the campers.

Yes, there are trees in the "lavatrees"

Someone had a big night!

  

Bucket List ... Almost Missed

Dementia on our Adventure

At the very start of our Holway Round Adventure, we decided that our one big splurge would be a once-in-a-lifetime experience at the Horizontal Falls.  We carefully chose the date to ensure the tides would be just perfect.  Monday, 5th August was tattooed on our foreheads, figuratively speaking, as the pivotal anchor point destination for us over the next four months.  However, somewhere along the bumps, the 5th turned into the 6th.  Picture the scene when my mobile rings at 6.30 am and the voice at the other end says, “Seaplane Adventures here, we’re at the gate or your caravan park, where are you?” 

Where the bloody hell were we?  Still in bed, that’s where!   Clearly, a humungous brain fart on our part.  As I explained our epic error, the nice man, clearly mustering every ounce of patience, said he had to pick up another couple from nearby, but would return for us in10 minutes sharp, reminding me that “the seaplane waits for no one” just as the brochure clearly stated.

Word of the Week - F%^& (deployed liberally)

Well, over the next few minutes Steve and I enacted that infamous opening scene from Four Weddings and a Funeral.    Hugh Grant would have been impressed, for sure.  After flinging a few random things in a bag, we hoofed it to the gate, only to endure the embarrassing walk of shame to the only two spare seats at the back of the minibus, feeling like two very naughty teenagers.  

Horizontal Falls – A Waterfall Like No Other

Upon reaching Derby Airport, our heart rates had settled, and we'd become bosom buddies with the people with whom we were about to share the most thrilling 24 hours of our life with.  It started with a jaw dropping 35-minute flight to Horizontal Falls in a sea plane.

Sir David Attenborough describes Horizontal Falls as one of the greatest natural wonders of the world – and who can argue with him?  Horizontal Falls consist of is two closely set narrow gorges just 300 metres apart.  When the tides do their tidal dance (up to 13 metres), the water builds up on one side of these gaps faster than it can flow through creating a remarkable sideways waterfall.

Not only did we enjoy magnificent aerial views, but we also experienced the thrill of zooming through the wide gap in a jet boat about a dozen times over three tides during our stay. 

Between our adventures around the Falls, we learned about the geology, wildlife, and tidal phenomena from highly knowledgeable marine biologists. We went fishing and even jumped into a cage to watch the Tawny Nurse and Lemon Sharks. The talented chef on our floating hotel treated us to the most delicious food, and as we admired the night sky, thanking our lucky stars for the incredible experience, dolphins and garfish performed their own spectacular display.

Views from the floating pontoon hotel

Dolphins splashing around the pontoon at night

Words and pictures just don't do justice to the awe-inspiring experience at Horizontal Falls. If the opportunity ever arises for you, seize it without hesitation; the memories will be etched in your memory forever.

Land, Sea or Tree?

Actually, it's none of those. To get to and from Horizontal Falls the sea plane flies over the scenic King Sound.  From the ground, all you can see is murky water, tangled mangroves and shimmering mudflats.  However, from the air, a canvas of abstract patterns resembling trees unfold.  At first glance, it appears to be an extraordinary piece of human artistry, but it soon becomes clear that the true creator is Mother Nature herself.

King Sound

Broome Time

The last time we were in Broome, was 13 years ago and Steve didn’t waste any time reacquainting himself with the town's renowned watering holes.  The views over Roebuck Bay were as delicious as Matso’s cold Ginger Beer.

A crafty beer or two at Roebuck Bay

The sky, sea and sand colours of Broome are insanely beautiful

In Broome, we stayed at Cable Beach Caravan Park, which was a far cry from the upscale Cable Beach Resort next to us, but hey, we experienced the same million-dollar sunset as our fancy neighbours.  One of Cable Beach’s famous touristy activities is a sunset camel ride.  It’s like Australia’s version of donkey rides at Weston-Super-Mare.  Watching these camels amble along the beach, I was puzzled by the absence of camel droppings.  It was then I spotted the camel poo picker-upper (probably a back-packer from Weston-Super-Mare).

Could this be my next career move?  Picking up the poo of others is a big part of HR, so I'm well-qualified for the job 😆

Eighty Mile Beach is a Big Fat Lie

Our time in Broome whizzed by all too quickly, yet the journey continued southward to Eighty Mile Beach, which, contrary to its name, stretches an impressive 137 miles, making it Australia's longest continuous beach. 

With an endless horizon, our days were filled with shell collecting, leisurely strolls (I even broke into a brief jog), fishing, and plenty of good conversation.

Somebody's unique tribute to Australia's Olympians on 80 Mile Beach (love how they didn't forget Tasmania)

Had fun finding Cake Urchins and Sea Dollars

Critter of the Week – Shovelnose Shark

Basking in the warm sunshine, we had fun watching a guy struggle to reel in what he believed to be a large fish. In the end, it was a stunning, protected Shovelnose Shark. Even though they taste great, he made the responsible choice and released it back into the water (probably because of the small crowd that gathered to watch) 😉

Not to be outdone, good old Steveo the Fisho managed to bring home supper with a Blue Nosed Thread Fin Salmon.  With a squirt of lime juice, salt n pepper, we had ourselves a beautiful ceviche.

Steve's 80 Mile Smile 😍