Something in the Eyre

Nullarbor…ing?

The Nullarbor, also known as the Eyre Highway, is one of Australia's most iconic and crucial roads, stretching from Norseman in Western Australia to Ceduna in South Australia. Depending on who you talk to it is something to enjoy or endure.  In anticipation of hectic winds and intimidatingly long road trains speeding past, we thought we'd loathe it more than love it, so we opted to cross it with just a one-nighter at a free camp in Madura and a small caravan park in Penong near the South Australian border.

Above:  Mhairi, and other animals you'll find on the Nullarbor, if you are lucky

Below:  Our free camp on the side of the Nullarbor at Madura

Above: The view for most of the 12-hour journey across the Nullarbor

Below: The long and straight of it

Nullarbor literally means 'no trees'.  Despite signs heralding abundant wildlife, we spotted none. The trip's standout moment was visiting a breathtaking overlook at the Great Australian Bight, where we could have camped right on the precipice of a sheer cliff marking the edge of Australia had we lingered longer.

The Great Australian Bight.  Camping on the edge, if you are brave

Entering the Twilight Zone

My biggest learning crossing the Nullarbor is that there's a stretch of 340 km with a time zone that marches to the beat of its own drum: the Australian Central Western Standard Time, clocking in at UTC+8.45. It's one of the rare time zones that's not content with whole hours - it demands an extra 45 minutes! So, within a space of 24 hours crossing WA to SA, we zoomed through 3 different time zones.  It was such a bizarre thing to experience!

Big Things – Big Windmills

Penong has a free outdoor museum showcasing a collection of windmills, all gifted by farmers from around the region, featuring “Bruce”, the largest windmill in Australia.

Bruce, the Big Windmill

Because we hadn’t driven enough that day, after setting up camp in Penong, we took a right turn southwards to Cactus Beach, a renowned surf hotspot.  On the way there we thought our eyes were deceiving us due to our very long Nullarbor crossing, but now, Lake Macdonnell really was pink on the right and blue on the left!

The World’s our Oyster

You’d think Matthew Flinders had a penchant for bacon when he named Smoky Bay and Streaky Bay!  We stopped by Smoky Bay to grab some of its famous oysters.  You just rock up and buy it directly from the farmer either shucked or unshucked.  It was a steal for $15 for a dozen.  Steve likes to shuck his own, but the owner “Softy” kindly shucked me a roadie.

Softy, doing the shucking, and Mhairi doing the eating

In Streaky Bay we decided we some prawns would accompany our oysters very nicely and we heard on the grapevine that a local guy sells them from his house.  When we arrived, he wasn't around, but he had an honesty box set up. There was even a photo on the wall of him feeding a Great White Shark. That's the definition of courage!

Steve working sorting out his honesty payment, and admiring the fisherman's big catch from another day

Above:  Tucking into our seafood feast at camp (with our "shoo fly" centre table piece, thoughtfully gifted to me by good friend Ali Hoile)

Below:  Tucking in to Seafood Chowder and Calamari at the delicious Drift Restaurant in Streaky Bay, because you can never have enough seafood on the Eyre Peninsular!

There are some stunning drives around this part of the Eyre Peninsular, it was amazing to see the only permanent colony of Australian Sealions sun baking and making sand angels from the lookout at Point Labatt.  

We counted 30 Australian Sea Lions here, but hard to spot in this photo

We also visited a private property to see Murphy's Haystacks, a group of ancient, wind-sculpted, and slightly wonky granite pillars and boulders believed to be over 1,500 million years old. 

Murphy's Hay Stacks

Struth! It's Honestly Beautiful

The Eyre Peninsular is a very trusting place.  There are honesty box systems everywhere.  We especially loved the Woodfired Bake House at Colton where we picked up some lovely rolls and sticky buns.

Nice Buns!

Venturing further south down to the lower Eyre Peninsular we stayed at a Port Lincoln on a private property on top of a hill surrounded by Mallee scrub and Yakka bushes.  We could see the whole of Port Lincoln.  Heidi, the owner pointed out the town’s two breweries, and Steve started salivating again!  

We had a great day at Coffin Bay and walked 7km of the Oyster Walk which skirts around the Bay.  You need to mind where you step though, it’s Emu Central, and they are not toilet trained.  We went into the National Park to hoon around the sand dunes and check out beautiful beaches like Golden Sands, where we saw dolphins and seals frolicking around in the surf.

Hold on to your hat at Golden Sands, Coffin Bay National Park

Word of the Week - "Fair Dinkum"!

I knew of this great Aussie phrase, but I'd never actually heard it in the wild.  We bumped into some Ultimate owners, Jenny and Anthony from Melbourne, in Coffin Bay NP (we have camped alongside this lovely couple from Melbourne a few times on our trip).  While we were exchanging tales of recent adventures, Steve got stung on his back by a feral bee.  Jenny let out a "Fair Dinkum, Steve!", and then went into full on nurse mode with her first-aid skills and supplies.  I was too busy stifling my sniggers at Jenny's exclamation to apply any sympathy to poor Steve.

Critter of the Week – Blue Swimmer Crab

Following our stay in Port Lincoln, we set up camp in Cowell. Despite the presence of two caravan parks, we chose a site managed by the local Lions Club. For a mere $15 a night, complete with a campfire and water, it was a roaring deal. A stroll into town led us to the jetty, where locals were hauling in Blue Swimmer Crabs. One lady was a bit miffed at having her hook taken by a Bronze Whaler Shark. Losing just the hook? I'd consider that lucky!

Crap Art

The Cowell residents are truly artistic entrepreneurs with a sense of humour.  They display their art for sale in the town’s toilet blocks, so doing business, while potential buyers do their business 💩.  Again, an honesty box system is in place.  Hopefully, purchasers wash their hands and post the right paper in the box 😆.

All Creatures Great and Small (and annoying) at Mambray Creek

We stayed at the Mambray Creek National Park on the recommendation of a couple we met in Margaret River.   The wildlife was a highlight, with kangaroos, goannas, and an abundance of birds.  However, it was the insects that made Mambray memorable for all the wrong reasons.  Midway through our hike to Sugar Gum Lookout, we discovered we’d been marching through bull ant nests and the little beasts were firing their feisty formic acid into our feet like they hadn’t been fed in a month of Fridays.  As our Strava reports will testify, the planned leisurely stroll up a steep hill on very hot day escalated into sudden sprints and frenzied dance moves, which would have given Raygun a run for her money.  Post-hike, we treated our ant bites with anti-histamine and Stop-Itch (thanks to Jenny, we had some left over from the bee episode), only to become the evening meal for Mambray's mozzies.

Above:  A very quick photo of Steve through gritted teeth at Sugar Gum Lookout due to the Bull Ant onslaught

Below:  Goanna's love to live in the hollows of Mambray Gum Trees

Camp Life – Go-anna have a drink on us

After our traumatic ramble, relaxation time at camp was disrupted by a parched goanna who decided our sink drainage bucket was the tastiest drink in the park.  At least it was one creature that didn't want to dine on us that day.

Turquoise Bays and Majestic Rays

Beaches that Blow your Mind

The beaches we've encountered on our journey have been incredible, but the ones from the past two weeks are the real winners. Stretching miles of pristine white sand, crystal-clear turquoise waters, and the bliss of seclusion, it's no wonder they're often featured in the world's best beaches list year after year.

Beautiful Bremer Bay

Bremer Bay is a sleepy coastal hamlet nestled between Albany and Esperance.  

It is one of the few places in the world where you can see Orcas (Killer Whales) in their natural habitat.  Unfortunately, you need to be here between January and April to catch their performance.  Instead, we enjoyed a lively show by the Salty Sea Dogs at the Bremer Bay Brewery.  It was really fun to watch them bang out sea shanties with gusto.  We couldn’t help but sing along to the Drunken Sailor.

Word of the Week - "Shoofly"

As we’ve travelled along the south coast of WA, we’ve noticed that the flies are even friendlier than the good folk who live here.  Wearing our fly nets to avoid unintentionally inhaling these pesky little creatures has been essential.

No flies on us

While flapping away the flies, it's vital to stay focused on the path. Here are some reptiles that stopped us in our tracks.

Tiger Snake - Big Danger Noodle

King Skink

Accidental Starvation

Amidst my excitement of exploring this beautiful coastline, it dawned on my halfway to Esperance that we were set to arrive three days ahead of our booking.  This boo boo meant we needed to find an impromptu place to stay, and pronto.  Consulting our bible (aka WikiCamps) we found we were close to a place called Starvation Bay.  What a genius cock up!  It turned out to be a sensational little cove, named after French explorers who were marooned there in the 18 century and sadly succumbed to starvation.

Stunning Starvation Bay

Big Things – Big Fence

Another intriguing discovery is that if you stroll far enough along the beach at Starvation Bay, you'll come across the beginning of the Rabbit Proof Fence, constructed in the early 1900s. Spanning 1,200 kilometers, it was once the world's longest fence, extending from this point to Cape Keraudren in Northwest WA. However, the project turned out to be an epic failure.  It was doomed before it was even finished.  Little Thumpers found a way and were munching their way through their forbidden territory before you could say “What’s up Doc?”.

The remains of the wall that marks the start of the Rabbit Proof Fence

Esperance – Every Cloud Has a Silver Lining

Esperance - surely the jewel in the crown of WA.  Whilst we had some sunny days to chill out on Esperance's many beaches, we also had some overcast days too which were perfect for hitting the walking trails.

My two favourite Esperence Beaches.  Above:  Twilight Cove, home of Esperance Surf Life Saving Club.  Below, Blue Haven Beach

Below:  We left our clothes on at Free Beach - didn't want to scare those snakes and sharks 

Whilst Esperance is a bustling port for exporting iron ore, nickel and grain, it also boasts a charming esplanade and fantastic street art sponsored by local businesses, showcasing the town’s history and culture. On our travels I’ve noticed that street art seems to deter graffiti.  I don't know if the art instills community pride, or simply makes it harder to deface, but either way, I'm keen to see this idea spread to parts of Sydney's Northern Beaches.

Awesome Esperance Street Art

Lest We Forget

Being in Esperance for Remembrance Day and participating in the town's service was a privilege. It was heartbreaking to discover that during World War II, Esperance, with a population of only 300, sent 70 men to war, and tragically, 20 of them never returned.

Lucked Out – Another Brewery

Whilst the turquoise lagoons and pristine sands were a big pull to this area, Esperance’s Brewery, Lucky Bay Brewery, was a huge draw card for Steve.  It has been recommended to him so many times on this trip.   Our visit was made all the better, by catching up with some delightful travel buddies, Emma and Damian, who we first met when we camped at the Chocolate Shop in Pemberton and then again in Bremer Bay.  Live music, yummy wood-fired pizza, great companions and a huge selection of craft beer – all the ingredients for a fab night out.

Trading travel tales with Emma and Damian at Lucky Bay Brewery

It is said that beer is only rented for a few hours.  Well, it looks like this is a strongly held belief judging by the urinals at Lucky Bay Brewery!

From bladder to barrel in a flash

Stone the Crow!

Following our visit to Esperance, we explored the stunning Cape Le Grand National Park and surrounds, arriving at the picturesque Wharton Beach. Once again, the striking contrast of white sands and turquoise waters was breathtaking. It was there we encountered Donna from Brisbane and her goofy Labradoodle-Groodle cross, Ollie. Donna, who has been traveling solo - Ollie aside - inspired us with her journey of life and her lap of Oz.  Unfortunately, Donna dropped her car and caravan keys on the sand whilst walking and they were picked up by an opportunistic crow.  Fortunately, Steve managed to help her "access" her spare keys from her caravan, else she would have been stranded in paradise forever.

A walk and then a cuppa on the beach

Critter of the Week – Stingray

At Wharton Beach, a magnificent large stingray glided through the crystal-clear shallows, following us for about 200 meters.

Lucky Us at Lucky Bay

Lucky Bay, crowned the World's Best Beach in 2023, is so popular that securing a camping spot in the National Park is quite a challenge. Fortunately, we managed to book early and snagged a stay for a few nights. The bay was named by Matthew Flinders during his historic circumnavigation of Australia in 1802, where he used it as a safe anchorage.

We walked the length of the Bay to Rossiter Bay and around to Thistle Cove in the other direction.  While we didn’t see the kangaroos that famously lounge about on the pristine white sand, but did spot them tucking into some Pringles left carelessly outside a camper's tent.

Above:  Lucky Bay from the camp side end

Below:  Looking back on Lucky Bay from Rossiter Bay

Tessel Banksia – Relatable Flora

On our treks through this stunning region, we’ve come across the Tessel Banksia plant many times, sparking some philosophical thoughts.   At this time of year, some of its blossoms are vibrant, full of color and vitality, while others are, well, a little bit crusty around the edges.   Yet in its entirety, the whole plant is a metaphor for where I am in my life right now.  Sure, there are a few signs of aging from the many seasons I've been fortunate to enjoy, but I'm still charged with energy for adventures and experiences yet to come.  Wrap it all up in a plant like the Tessel Banksia, and it looks pretty damn beautiful.  

Camp Life

When the sun goes down (as it does very early in WA), we retreat to our cozy 1.5 square metre living/kitchen area, where entertainment becomes a challenge of its own. Over the last 9 months we have binge watched Gavin and Stacey (very late to that game), Yellowstone, and every British TV crime drama you can think of, on a very tiny Ipad (solar panels permitting).  Lately, we've taken up charades for fun. Can you figure out Steve’s movie!

Walking Amongst Giants

Chocolate Box Camping

In our quest for unique camping spots, we stumbled upon the Southern Forests Chocolate Company near Pemberton.  At $15 a night fee it was a sweet deal which meant we had extra pennies to sample the artisan chocolate and indulge in the most amazing hot chocolate that we’ve ever tasted. 

Big Things – Big Trees

To burn off the calories we punished ourselves with a grueling hike through Gloucester National Park, surrounded by the terrifyingly tall Karri Trees.

In this region, you can ascend three fire lookout trees, the tallest being the Dave Evans Bicentennial Tree which was pegged in 1988 as part of Australia’s bicentennial celebrations.  

At 68 metres above the forest floor, it is the world's highest treetop lookout in the world.  Although climbing to the very top was prohibited last year due to it being deemed too perilous even for Aussie standards, but you can scramble up a lofty 20 metres if you can stomach it.  Well, let me tell you, Steve scaled it as fast as a rat up a drainpipe on a sugar rush (must have been all that chocolate he ate).  He likened it to climbing the mast on Quantock, always eager to satisfy his sailing passion even in the absence of a yacht.  

Above:  Steve on his Hari-Kari mission up the Karri Tree

Below:  Steve at the highest point that you are allowed to climb (only halfway!)

Loved to Death

In addition to the towering Karri Trees, the Tingle Trees stand impressively large. We visited a Giant Tingle Tree with a 24-metre girth, aged over 400 years.

Steve in the Giant Tingle Tree, Walpole

Previously, another enormous Tingle Tree in the area was a popular attraction, where visitors would drive into its hollow trunk for a unique photo opportunity. However, despite their impressive height, Tingle Trees have quite shallow root systems. Sadly, this tree fell in 1990 due to soil compaction around its roots due to people using it as a drive thru'. The silver lining was that this tree's fall led to the creation of the Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk, allowing visitors to wander through the ancient tingle forest with little to no impact on the environment. Suspended 40 metres high, the skywalk provides a rare chance to walk among the treetops of the towering Tingle Trees. 

Above: Mhairi holding on to the railing very tightly on the wobbly walkway 

Below: The last car to drive through the ill-fated Tingle Tree was a Holden

Word of the Week - WOW!!!

In awe of the giant trees in this region, we used this word a lot.  And we were particularly "wowed by Walpole".

You could easily blink and miss this tiny town, but we were really glad to stay here for 3 days, camping on a gorgeous site by the beach.  

WOW is also the name of a fabulous cruise we went on - The WOW Wilderness Eco Cruise.  It was a standout experience all thanks to Gary "Gazza" Muir, the tour guide and boat owner. His knowledge of Walpole, the universe and everything is incredible.  Such an engaging, funny man.

Above:  Gazza teaching us about science, history, and everything Walpole

Below:  Wading through a snake infested swamp to reach a magnificent Melaleuca Tree (aka the Paperbark Tree)

Apparently, the town of Walpole is "chocka blocka full of Quokka", to quote Gazza.  Unlike Rottnest Island, the ones in Walpole are nocturnal, which meant no Quokka selfies for us, unfortunately.  However, there were lots of other wildlife to get excited about.

Critter of the Week – Australian Ringneck Parrot

Also known as the Twenty-Eight Parrot because the botanist who discovered it thought its squawk sounded like the French word for 28 (vingt-huit) – “van tweet”. Another theory is that it takes 28 parrots to make a pie.  Steve was ready to make a pie when this pretty polly stole his glasses.  

Above:  Steve getting his pirate on with the 28

Below:  Footage of the pesky pilfering parrot stealing Steve's specs

Camp Life

Taking advantage of a powered site, it's the perfect opportunity to fill the freezer with healthy meals.  Roo Rogan Josh, anyone? 😋

What’s that Skippy? Mhairi’s whipping up another batch of Butter Chicken in the Thermie?

Delicious Denmark

Heading east along the coast, we reached the charming little town of Denmark boasting breathtaking landscapes, crystal-clear waters, and a vibrant food and wine scene.  It’s pretty easy to fall in love with this place.

We stayed in a quaint little caravan park on a river bend, a perfect spot to explore the area.  We visited the renowned Elephant Rocks and Green Pool.  It was a bit chilly for a dip, so we hit Boston Brewery, Bartholomew's Meadery, Ducket’s Mill for some cheese and Singlefile Winery.

Above: Elephant Rocks just outside of Denmark

Below: Trying to find the Queen of the hive whilst tucking into Salted Honey Ice-cream at Bartholomew's Meadery

Above:  So much yummy food at Ducketts Mill, we had to take a doggy bag

Below:  Single File Winery - dangerously close to our camp

On a cool day, we took a hike through Porongurup National Park to tackle the lung-busting Castle Rock Trail, leading to the massive granite dome that is Castle Rock.  The ascent's climax involved scaling a 7-meter ladder to reach the Granite Skywalk – that was the heart-pumping part!  Nerves conquered; the view was spectacular, with vistas stretching to Albany.  

Above: Balancing Rock on the hike to Castle Rock

Below:  View of Castle Rock and the Granite Sky Walk (not my photo!).  If I'd seen this photo beforehand, I wouldn't have done it 😅

Following a less daunting descent, we drove to historic Albany to visit the Brig Amity replica and the old Whaling Station.

Above:  Steve at the helm of the Brig Amity

Below:  Original Whaling Boat at Albany

Mop Chop Discrimination

Not to be outdone by Steve looking schmick with another one of his DIY haircuts at camp, I decided to get a trim while in Albany.  But after three hairdressers gave me the 'see you in three weeks' line (and I was only in town for the arvo), I resorted to the dodgy barber’s shop against my better judgement.

Red Flag 1:  It had the classy name of 'Scissorhands'.

Red Flag 2:  The hairdresser (loose term) looked like Kath (from Kath n Kim) who had been dragged through a fuzz bush backwards.

Red Flag 3:  Scribbled note on the mirror “If I find eggs or nits in your hair, I will abandon your cut immediately”.

There was also a big sign declaring “cash only”.  To make sure I had enough coinage for "Kath", I asked the price for a trim.  "it's $25 for guys, $50 for girls"!

Despite all the warning signs, with such an apparent skills shortage of hairdressers in this part of the world, I was desperate, so forked over the cash for a 10-minute chop.   Lucky, I have lots of hats on this trip!

And Finally ...

No standout lavatory signage spotted this week, but this personalised rego plate did make us chuckle.  Prado drivers clearly love their food!