Orange is the New Black

We Made It!

Today marked a major milestone on the Holway 'Round journey, by reaching Cape York, the northernmost point of Australia.

Note the bullet holes in the sign that only appeared last week.  Kind of annoyed about the mindless vandalism, but in a weird way, makes it even more Ozzie.

The last few weeks have been epic, so here’s the lowdown since our last blog.

Nang … Bang!

En route to Port Douglas on regular bitumen road (not even some wild 4WD track), we heard a loud pop and were deflated to discover that we had a puncture.  Steve quickly changed the tyre and we were off on our merry way.  But in Port Douglas, the mechanic extracted the weapon of mass destruction – a used nang - and informed us that the tyre was beyond repair.  After many calls, we eventually sourced a supplier back in Sydney who could freight one up to us.  Thanks to some loser’s ‘high’ we were lighter to the tune of $600.

Party Time with our Special Fly In

The best part of our week in Port Douglas was the VIP visit from Kirstie, who flew in for the weekend just to hang out with us.  By sheer fluke, Kirstie’s visit coincided with 30th anniversary of Port Douglas's "Carnivale."  We joined in the festivities and enjoyed walks along 4 Mile Beach and Flagstaff Hill.  On Kirstie’s last day we clocked up 30,000 steps exploring Palm Cove and Cairns before another teary farewell.

It’s A Long Way to the Top

With Kirstie safely despatched back to Sydney, and our new tyre on board, we were all set for the next leg of our adventure – venturing into Australia’s most unspoilt wilderness.  Comparable in size to the UK, Cape York has a reputation of being a bit of a car killer with its corrugations, washouts and bridge collapses.  Armed with my Wikicamps App and donning my heavy-duty sports bra, we were geared up to tackle the lengthy, rugged, bumpy terrain ahead.

Tragic Tale of Stumpy, Laura’s Legendary Landlord

We celebrated the beginning of our Cape Chapter, with a visit to the pub at Laura.  It had only just reopened following a lengthy closure due to the previous landlord, Stumpy, being fatally taken by a crocodile whilst fishing for barramundi in the nearby river.  A newspaper clipping on the pub wall commemorated him with the words, "At least he died doing his favourite thing."  What a way to go!!

Steve toasting "Stumpy"

Not long after leaving Laura, the earth turned orange – and so did the car, the van and everything else.  Apparently, we will be finding this dust for the next 8 years, so we are just embracing it as our new favourite colour. Our first overnight stop was at Fairview, a road train repair station.  Whilst it doesn’t sound very exotic, the birdlife was sensational.

Critter of the Week – Freshwater Crocodile

At our next camp, Musgrave Roadhouse, we were reassured by the barbed wire separating our camp from the “Freshies”.  Whilst freshwater crocs will give you a nasty bite, they are not as aggressive as their “Salty” cousins.  Phew!  We felt so much more relaxed knowing that.

Snakes and a Close Shave at Archer River

Our next stop was the Archer River Roadhouse.  My relief that our lives were not in imminent danger from the crocodiles was short lived when I read the sign outside the shower block.  Seriously, everything up here wants to kill you.

With the mercury hitting the thirties, Steve decided it was the perfect time to whip out the clippers and give himself a DIY haircut. Truly a man of many talents!

Bush Tucker Delights at Chilli Beach

Being the intrepid explorers that we are, we veered off the beaten track and headed east for a few hours to the secluded and deserted Chili Beach in the Iron Range Rainforest.    After setting up camp we walked along the beach taking in the remote beauty of the place until we hit our “Oh Shit" moment.  Near a mangrove cluster, Steve glanced down and spotted a large, claw-like footprint right beside his own. It goes without saying, we retraced our steps rather sharpish.

Steve's footprint next to the salty croc print

Relieved to avoid becoming part of the food chain at Chilli Beach, we channeled our inner Robinson Crusoe and scoured the area for bush tucker.  Wielding an axe and sporting his Aussie safety boots (aka thongs/flip flops) Steve managed to crack open a coconut.  We complemented it with wild passionfruit for a scrummy afternoon tea.

Spa Time – Cape Style

Roadhouse “facilities” can be a bit hit and miss.  Its potluck whether you will find any hot water, a shower curtain or an insect rave party in full swing.  Nature’s perfect solution to this is to take a dip in the Cape’s breathtaking waterholes.  We loved Eliot Falls, Twin Falls and Fruit Bat Falls.

Eliot Falls

Mhairi getting a water massage at Twin Falls

Steve taking a natural spa at Fruit Bat Falls

Beautiful Fruit Bat Falls

Mhairi’s Top Tips for a Trip to the Tip

• Orange is the new black – you cannot escape the red dust – just go with it
• When you get ‘Wolf Creek’ vibes in a remote camp spot – it’s not the best time to tune in to a true crime podcast
• Always check the toilet for frogs and other wildlife
• Water is a rare, precious liquid – use it sparingly. Fuel is an expensive liquid ($2.89 a litre) – you have to buy it, so don’t think about it. Alcohol is a restricted liquid in many parts – a good time to cleanse that liver
• If you get the chance to do this trip – DO IT