From the Coral Coast to the Turquoise Coast
This week, we've travelled an epic 1,000 kms south along Western Australia's stunning coastline from Ningaloo on the Coral Coast, down to Cervantes on the Turquoise Coast, hugging the Indian Ocean on Steve's side of the car.
What a Fruit Loop!
As we journeyed through Carnarvon, we were delighted to discover the "Fruit Loop" Driving Trail, home to heaps of plantations that yield 80% of Western Australia's fruits and vegetables. We stopped by an organic farm and, for a mere $9, we scored several punnets of cherry tomatoes, a huge juicy pomelo, and fresh veggies - a truly sweet bargain.
A Delightful Surprise in Denham
Denham, the only town in the World Heritage Area of Shark Bay, served as our picturesque seaside base for exploring the region. After a nearly 7-hour drive, which included a 130 km detour off the main highway, we arrived and got the best surprise ever when we were greeted by our good friends Daryl and Mary.
We had originally met these wonderful folks on the Gibb River Road in mid-July and have shared many memorable times together. Although we had said our goodbyes a few weeks prior, thinking our paths were diverging, they surprised us by altering their plans for one final "hurrah" together, and what a fun night it was. We can't wait to visit Daryl and Mary in Strathbogie when our travels eventually take us there.
Monkey M.I.A (Missing In Action)
One of the main reasons people take the long pilgrimage to the Shark Bay area is to visit Monkey Mia where wild Indo-Pacific Bottlenose dolphins have been gracing the shores every day for decades. Unfortunately, on the day we chose to visit, the dolphins were a no-show. Clearly, they had bigger fish to fry!
We decided to make the best of it and explore other attractions in the area, which promised more guaranteed sightings. The highlights include:
- Denham's Discovery Centre hosting a captivating permanent 3D exhibition known as 'Fire on the Water.' This free display chronicles the tragic WWII encounter in Shark Bay where the German raider Kormoran, camouflaged as a commercial vessel with its hidden artillery, ambushed the HMAS Sydney II, resulting in the loss of its 645 crew members.
- Shell Beach, a beach is made up of millions of coquina shells without a grain of sand in sight.
- The stromatolites at Hamelin Pool are like nature’s time capsules, giving us a peek into what life was like around 3.5 billion years ago. These “living fossils”, found in just a couple of other salty lagoons on the planet, are some of the oldest life forms on Earth. These ancient wonders were the first ever organisms to produce oxygen. Without them, life wouldn’t even exist. That’s quite a mind-blowing thought!
Word of the Week – Feral
I love the way Australians use the word feral to depict rowdy teenagers or littering tourists. However, this week, we've seen the word used in the true sense, with some inventive measures targeting feral animals. For example, the bathrooms in this area are waterless to deter “feral” bees.
Shark Bay also features a "barking fence" equipped with a sensor that emits a loud woofing sound to scare away feral foxes, cats, and goats. Skeptical, I nagged Steve to stop the car so I could mimic a "feral" and trigger the noise. The volume was so loud that it made me jump out of my skin! My first video had expletives, so here's my child-friendly version.
Kalbari – A Treasure Trove of Natural Wonders
Traveling a few hundred kilometers down the coast, it was amazing to see the scenery transform before our eyes. With its pristine beaches and gorges, Kalbari is a nature lovers paradise at the best of times. However, September's wildflower season brings Kalbarri to life in a spectacular display of blooms. Unfortunately, it also means the flies are very friendly here. The unsexy flynet accessory that I’d bought at the camping and caravanning show many moons ago, finally got its time to shine! After a minute of relentless attack, I donned mine with pride. Steve, being the vain trooper that he is, persevered with the classic Aussie wave, battling the air around him like a man possessed, and consuming a few protein bullets in the process.
Island Rock, Kalbari, where we watched a mummy humpback whale
teach her calf to breach and perform tail slaps.
Natural Bridge and some of the wildflowers in Kalbari
Critter of the Week – Emu
As we drove around the Kalbari coastline, it was a treat to see a family of Emus strutting their stuff. Apparently, the emu and kangaroo feature on the Australian Coat of Arms because they're two creatures that can't walk backwards, symbolising the nation’s commitment to progress.
Steve's Brewery Tour of Australia
As I journal our adventure, Steve journals his brewery experiences on the "Untapped" ale-rater app. It's an important and serious business 😏.
Impressed with "Finlays" in Kalbari, we had to go here twice.
Pink Lake
Leaving Kalbari, we opted for the scenic Indian Ocean Drive route south so that we could see the stunning natural wonder of Hutt Lagoon. The vibrant pink hue is caused by salt-loving algae. Pretty to look at, but awful to swim in. The colour can vary from bubble gum pink to lilac depending on the time of day.
Blue Tree 💙
While circumnavigating Australia, we've come across the occasional dead tree painted bright blue in random, often remote places. I recently learned that this is part of The Blue Tree Project, an initiative that began in Western Australia. Its mission is to raise awareness about mental health by encouraging people to paint dead trees blue. These blue trees serve as visual reminders to spark conversations about mental health and to check in on loved ones who might be struggling. The movement started in memory of Jayden Whyte, who tragically took his own life in 2018. His mates painted a tree blue in his memory, and this act has since grown into a widespread campaign globally. Now, whenever I see a blue tree, it brings thoughts of my beautiful cousin, David who we lost 6 and half years ago. Coincidentally, the most recent one I spotted this week, and just a few days out from R U OK Day, was near the town of Northampton, where David spent his childhood in the UK.
Blue Tree in Northampton
Gero - Don't Go 👎
Geraldton has earned its spot in our top three places to skip next time. In hindsight, camping for two days on the beach in one of Australia's windiest cities, with winds forecasted at 25 knots, might not have been the wisest decision. Steve said that trying to secure the awning in the midst of the roaring storm at 2 am reminded him of navigating the Bass Strait during the Sydney to Hobart yacht race.
Peculiar Pinnacles and Lobster Lunch
Exhausted, we rolled into the Spanish-named town of Cervantes. After a recovery day, we explored the Pinnacles Desert nearby. It's like a lunar landscape filled with rock pillars that look like tombstones. Whilst there are some theories of how they came to be, nobody really knows.
One thing's for sure, the Galahs love nesting on these strange stone enigmas, although the pair I filmed seemed to find me equally peculiar judging by their body language!
