And that's a Lap Wrap

After a whole year of bouncing around this vast land, the 'Holway Round' has officially come to a close.

We decided to bring it all full circle by ending up in Bendalong, which is very special to us. When we first landed in Australia almost 19 years ago, Bendalong was one of the very first places we camped and a spot we've returned to year after year. It just felt right to make it the final stop on this epic journey.

Joined by 20 of some of our favourite humans (plus 3 doggos), everyone had a lot of fun walking, surfing, kayaking, finska battles, hammock lounging, wildlife spotting, and of course, talking, laughing and partaking in a few beverages.  Basically, the perfect welcome back. We couldn't have asked for a better way to wrap up this crazy, amazing year.

Above:  Bendalong Buddies (photo escapees:  Jonno, Lisa, Chris)

Below: Heidi admiring the view with her next-door neighbour, Bonny

Jonno proving that camping is seriously hard work

Nothing Defies the Defender

Despite a reputation for unreliability, our trusty Defender, didn’t miss a beat.  She conquered The Cape, gobbled The Gibb and even bounced her way through The Bungle Bungles unscathed. For a new gal, she has packed in a lot in her young life.

This is where she took us:

10 Few Fun Facts and Stats

- KMs Travelled:  37,500 (23,300 miles)

- Fuel: $8,500

- Number of times we set up camp:  120

- Camp fees: $9,500

                 - Best Beach in Australia:  Wharton Beach, WA 

- Breweries visited: 55 (All logged on the on Untappd App)

- Times we had to be rescued:  zero

- Times we had to come to the rescue of others:  3

- Repairs:  3 punctures and 1 windscreen chip

- Fatalities:  3 kangaroos, 2 goannas, a gazillion flies 

 

 Critter of the Week - Eagle Ray

A camp in Bendalong isn't complete without patting the resident Rays

Word of the Week – THANK YOU!

We have gratitude in abundance to dish out.

First up, a massive shoutout to all those amazing strangers who somehow morphed into lifelong friends along the way. You know who you are – the ones who shared those unexpected, incredible moments with us in some very remote places. Honestly, you'll always have a place at our table.  Please come visit.

Huge thanks to Wendy and Paul for being absolute legends and looking after our trusty car and camper at their farm while we flew back home from Perth mid-lap.

Of course, to our incredible 'old' friends who made that final Bendalong camp such a blast - you guys totally nailed the return!  We couldn't have asked for a better crew to share those last few days with.

And to everyone who followed along on this crazy ride, leaving comments on this Blog and on Facebook, and cheering us on, especially from the UK - thank you! 

We really hope our Holway Round blog gave you a chuckle or maybe even sparked a bit of wanderlust.  None of us are getting out of this alive - so grab life by the bollocks and go for it!

Honestly, our minds are completely blown by everything we've seen and experienced. And get this – we only travelled around the edge! The vast, wild interior and, of course, Tasmania are definitely calling our names for future adventures.  

Signing off with one final thought ...

Watery Wonderlands and Ferocious Fires

Over the last 10 days we’ve journeyed through the 3 states of Victoria, South Australia and New South Wales and have been humbled by the magnificent and powerful essence of Mother Nature’s wonder and wrath.  I also received the photographic proof, that the sun really does shine out of Steve's bum, for putting up with me for a whole year on the road!

A Lava-ly Time on the Limestone Coast

After leaving the Great Ocean Road we drove west into South Australia and landed in the captivating city of Mount Gambier with its unique geological wonders.  After a long drive, we were greeted by the resident Alpaca and then decided to stretch our legs with a sunset stroll.  By accident, we arrived at The Blue Lake, a stunning volcanic crater lake that transforms from a steely grey in winter to a vibrant cobalt blue in summer.  As it is the town's primary water source, swimming wasn’t an option, but it was beautiful to walk around.

Another must-see in Mount Gambier is the Umpherston Sinkhole. This sunken garden used to be a limestone cave before it collapsed, and now it's an oasis of cascading vines, vibrant flowers, and perfectly manicured pathways. This truly enchanted garden, totally free to visit, was quite remarkable.

Above:  Looking down on Umpherston Sink Hole

Below:  In the Sink!

Like the mad English people we are, we tested our endurance in the midday sun with a grueling hike up and around the Centenary Tower to take in a 360-degree view of the whole city and volcanic landscape.

Above:  Towering over Mount Gambier.  It was blowing a gale and Stevo was devo to have lost his most favourite sailing cap whilst taking this snap

After visiting Mount Gambier, we returned to the stunning limestone coast and arrived at Robe. With a rich maritime history, Robe was once the busiest port in the region. Now, it's a charming seaside town with pristine beaches, fancy boutiques, and scrumptious seafood.  Steve decided this little town is the place in the whole of Australia he'd like to retire to (yacht club, great brewery, beach driving).

Toilet Humour

Upon arrival, we upgraded our camping spot away from the view of the "Poo Shop" (below) to a waterfront vista (above) – best $10 we ever spent!

Above:  A crackin' good photo of a man making a deposit at the Poo Shop

Below:  Steve chinwagging with two fellow sailors;  Matthew Flinders and Nicolas Baudin

Big Things – The Big Lobster

The Big Lobster at Kingston SE

Saints and Sinners

As we crossed the state border, we stopped for coffee in Penola to discover that it was here that Mary McKillop, Australia’s first saint, did her best work, dedicating her life to education and social reform, particularly for the poor and marginalised.  

The little town has a lot of girl power going on, The Generosity of Spirit sculpture was recently installed to honor all the amazing women who have been part of the Penola and Coonawarra communities. It's inspired by Erin Hanson's poem, "What if you can fly."

There is freedom waiting for you, 

On the breezes of the sky, 

And you ask “What if I fall?”  

Oh but my darling, What if you fly?  

This beautiful piece of art captures the spirit and strength of these incredible women.

In stark contrast, just further along the road, we came to Casterton.  Thanks to my morbid habit of Googling “Deaths in xxx town” whenever we drive through a place, I discovered that a resident, who believed he was Hitler’s grandson, is halfway through his 20-year sentence for stabbing three men in a frenzied assault, resulting in the deaths of two of them.

Grateful for the Grampians

After the terrible bush fires last month, we nearly didn’t go to the Grampians.  After hearing that roads were open and the township of Halls Gap was in desperate need for visitors to return, we changed our minds.  Boy, were we glad we went.  As we drove through the ranges, it was confronting to see the extent of the devastation on the flora and fauna, but equally, amazing to see how quickly the regeneration was happening.  

Above:  Charred remains of part of the Grampians

Below:  Looking like tinsel on a Christmas tree, new life begins

The fires had also pushed the wildlife towards the paddock in the campground where we were staying, so we were treated to a parade of roos, emus and deer at dusk and dawn.

Above:  Some lovely strangers took this photo of us on top of the Pinnacles

Below:  Looking down on MacKenzie Falls before we hiked to the bottom of it

Critter of the Week – Eastern Grey Kangaroo

A lap of Australia wouldn’t be complete without dedicating the Critter of the Week to a roo.  It was entertaining to watch this mob engaging in fisty cuffs at dawn.  

“Ultimately” Friends Reunited

From the Grampians, we set out on a special mission to visit the tiny little town of Strathbogie to visit our wonderful friends, Daryl and Mary, who we met during our adventures in the Kimberleys and Pilbara. Over the course of two days, we reminisced about our amazing memories, explored the beautiful Strathbogie area (while keeping an eye on a threatening bushfire), and enjoyed some delightful wining and dining both at their delightful home and out and about.  

Above:  Fun at Fowles Winery with Darryl and Mary

Below:  Strathbogie's community "Sharing Shed: where the locals share homegrown, fruit and veg, seeds and other supplies surplus to their requirements.

Above:  Watching Platypus play along Smiths's Creek

Below:  But, only fast enough to snap the Echidna

Crossing the border into New South Wales, we arrived at the penultimate stop of our Big Lap, the lovely town of Tumut nestled in the foothills of the Snowy Mountain where we set up camp and caught up with Kathy and Greg, who we first bumped into in the Northern Territory back in June.

Camp Life – Sharing the Shower

I've become quite the nature lover on this trip, so much so, that I was perfectly fine sharing my shower with Harriet the Huntsman this week.  I have to admit, though, I did skip washing my face that day!

Vic-torious Adventures

Over the past couple of weeks, we've followed the coast around from Phillip Island to Port Fairy, experiencing everything the Surf Coast and the Shipwreck Coast have to offer.  Nothing but the vast Southern Ocean separating us from Antarctica!

Phillip Island or is it the Isle of Wight?

Two islands on opposite sides of the world, both with their main town named Cowes, both major motorsport hubs, and places of incredible natural beauty. The only difference penguins instead of red squirrels (and a tad more sunshine here).

Above: The Pinnacles at Cape Woolamai

Below:  A resident Woolamai Wallaby

Mornington and Melbourne Meet-Ups

We loved our stay on the swanky Morning Peninsula, visiting the posh little towns of Sorrento and Mount Martha. We are grateful to our friends Rick and Cathy for being tour guides, taking us to a fabulous winery in Red Hill, Arthur’s Seat, and Heronswood Gardens in Dromana.

Above: Big smiles after a fabulous lunch and wine tasting

Below:  View from Arthur's Seat and the historic house at Heronswood Gardens

From our camp at Mornington, we also ventured into the big smoke of Melbourne for a lovely lunch catch-up with ex-Pandora colleague and friend forever, Tania, and her darling little Dalia. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t our friend, but we had fun exploring the bougie arcades.

Whatever Happened to Harold?

A hike to the Nepean National Park on the end of the Mornington Peninsular was totally worth it.  We had a blast in the WW1 tunnels and pondering the mystery of what on earth happened to Harold Holt, the Australian Prime Minister who vanished while swimming here in 1967.

Was he really a Chinese spy whisked away by a submarine? Was he taken out by someone with a better aim than Trump's shooter? Or did aliens beam him up? We decided he was probably just a snack for the big finned fishies lurking around these parts.

Above: Wot!  No Harold!  But at least we found his memorial

Below:  One of the many WW1 tunnels at Nepean Point

The GREAT Ocean Road

Torquay – quite different from Torquay on the Devonshire South Coast of England. This place is a shrine to surfing.  We camped next to three breweries and surf factory outlets - beer and bargains - a dangerous double whammy. It was here that we caught up with our good friends Tim and Helen from Collaroy. A fabulous was night was had by all!

Above:  Torquay foreshore

Below:  Another town, another brewery to check out!

Rip Curl's National Head Quarters

Hells Bells!

Bells Beach is Australia's surfing mecca, famous for its powerful waves and stunning natural amphitheater. It has a rich surfing history dating back to the 1960s and is home to the Rip Curl Pro, the world's longest-running surfing competition.

The big swells that roll in from the Southern Ocean create perfect conditions for high-performance surfing.   Legends like Kelly Slater, Mick Fanning, and Layne Beachley have competed and won here.

Big Things – The World’s Biggest War Memorial

The Great Ocean Road is considered the world's largest war memorial. It was built by returned soldiers between 1919 and 1932 to honour those who died in World War I.

Stretching about 243 kilometers (151 miles) along Australia's southeastern coast between Torquay and Allansford in Victoria, it offers breathtaking of rugged cliffs lush rainforests, and beautiful beaches. It's more than just a road it's a journey through history and nature!! 

Critter of the Week – Otway Black Snail (Carnivorous Snail)

We took an amazing hinterland detour from the Great Ocean Road into the Otway Ranges.  Our short hike into Maits Rest, was like walking through an enchanted forest with gigantic ferns and towering Myrtle Beech trees.  It also the home of Carnivorous Snails, endemic to the Otway rainforest.

Unlike most snails, the Otway Black Snail feeds on other snails, slugs and worms.  Maits Rest was a beautiful spot to explore and witness these unique creatures in their natural habitat. 

Word of the Week – Cheeeese

Dating back to the 19th Century, Australia’s oldest dairy processor is located near Warrnambool.  It makes COON cheese (now known as CHEER - don't get me started on that!) and other big cheese brands.  

We also found ourselves saying "Cheese" multiple times while taking photos of all the grockles on the Great Ocean Road.

The Great Ocean Road is a major tourist destination, and we can see why!  So glad we came here at the end of the summer.

Stacks of Fun

Embarking on the ultimate road trip that is the Great Ocean Road is like stepping into a natural art gallery.  The limestone marvels on the route are insanely awe- inspiring.

Besides the 12 Apostles, our other fave limestone stacks were the Loch Ard Gorge, named after the shipwreck, that occurred there in 1878; London Bridge (which is, indeed, falling down); and the Grotto, a picturesque sinkhole that creates a stunning natural window to the ocean.

Lost in the Bush

While hiking through the scrub on a coastal path, we were on high alert for snakes, so we were gob smacked to stumble upon this little cutie. There were no Eucalyptus trees as far as the eye could see, so maybe it was lost or just having some "koality" time sightseeing like us!

Camp Life – All Mapped Out

With just a few more weeks left on our Holway ‘Round adventure, our little map is looking a bit worn out from all the meals, card games and route planning!